基于局部编织技术的针织面料肌理设计与工艺  

Texture design and process of Knitted fabric based on partial knitting technology

作　　者：陈红娟[1] CHEN Hongjuan(School of Fashion Design Department,Suzhou Art&Design Technology Institute,Suzhou 214105,Jiangsu,China)

机构地区：[1]苏州工艺美术职业技术学院服装设计学院,江苏苏州215104

出　　处：《上海纺织科技》2022年第12期36-39,共4页Shanghai Textile Science & Technology

摘　　要：采用电脑横机技术和M1-PLUS软件,重点对局部编织工作原理及应用进行阐述。通过局部编织具体实例,分析了局部编织模块排列对针织面料肌理效果的影响。结果表明:对局部编织单元模块进行顺次、错位、叠加排列,可以形成不同形态的针织面料镂空肌理效果;将局部编织模块与平针、四平、浮线等组织复合,可以形成鼓包、皱褶以及变化的镂空肌理效果;同时,将不同几何形状的局部编织单元模块与不同纱线结合应用,可以形成具有设计感的针织面料。Using computer flat knitting machine technology and M1-PLUS software, the working principle and application of local knitting are emphasisly described. The influence of the arrangement of local knitting modules on the texture of knitted fabric is analyzed through a specific example of local knitting. The result indicates that he hollow texture of knitted fabrics with different shapes can be formed by arranging the local knitting unit modules in order, dislocation and superposition. In addition, swelling texture, wrinkle texture and hollow texture are developed by the partial technology, combined with plain loops, full gauge 1+1 rib and float loops. Finally, knitting unit modules with different geometric shapes can be combined with different yarns to form knitted fabrics with a sense of design.

关 键 词：针织面料 局部编织技术 肌理设计 编织工艺 

分 类 号：TS184.4[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]