赋美食以宋韵:林洪《山家清供》的饮食书写及其文化史意义  

Delicacies and Songyun Culture: Food Writing in Lin Hong’s Shanjia Qinggong and Their Meaning in the Cultural History

作　　者：方笑一[1] FANG Xiaoyi(Department of Chinese,East China Normal University,Shanghai 200241)

机构地区：[1]华东师范大学中文系,上海200241

出　　处：《文化艺术研究》2022年第6期36-42,112,共8页Studies in Culture and Art

摘　　要：在中国饮食文化史上,宋朝是一个极为关键的时代。中国的农业和食物最后成形于宋朝,中国伟大的烹调法也产生于宋朝。《山家清供》便是其中一部重要文献。《山家清供》为宋人林洪专写饮食的笔记,其中涉及的饮馔,约有一半由林洪命名。这些名称充满诗意,彰显了宋人清雅的审美趣味,同时,林洪大量引用诗歌,并对诗句作出阐释,丰富了其饮食书写的内涵,体现了宋代文人的价值追求和独特个性。《山家清供》对饮食逸事的叙述,也充满了文学色彩,这使其价值超越了饮食史料一端,而与宋代兴起的其他文学艺术样式一样,成为“宋韵”的一种表征。In the history of Chinese food culture, the Song dynasty is crucial. Chinese agriculture, cuisine, and cooking methods all matured during the Song dynasty. Shanjia Qinggong, a book of essays on delicacies by Lin Hong, is an important literature written in the Song dynasty. Lin gives poetic names to half of the dishes in the book, reflecting the delicate taste of the Song literati. He also cites and explaines a great number of poems to enrich his writing, displaying the pursuit and personality of the Song literati. The book’s depiction of cuisines and their stories is also literary. Shanjia Qinggong is more than a historical literature but a representative of the Songyun culture just like other literary and art forms emerged in the Song dynasty.

关 键 词：宋韵 林洪 《山家清供》 饮食书写 

分 类 号：G09[文化科学]