段彩竹节纱时序化分布规律设计及其数控成型原理  

Time-Sequential Distribution Design and Numerical Control Forming Principle of Segment Colored Slub Yarn

作　　者：薛元 汪燕燕 王怡淞 卜华香 吕明明 XUE Yuan;WANG Yanyan;WANG Yisong;BU Huaxiang;LYU Mingming(College of Textile Science and Engineering,Jiangnan University,Wuxi 214122,China;Wuxi Hezhan Electromecha-nical Technology Co.,Ltd.,Wuxi 214174,China)

机构地区：[1]江南大学纺织科学与工程学院,江苏无锡214122 [2]无锡市和展机电技术有限公司,江苏无锡214174

出　　处：《服装学报》2022年第6期471-479,共9页Journal of Clothing Research

基　　金：浙江省“尖兵”“领雁”研发攻关计划项目(2022C01188)。

摘　　要：为探索花式纱线的成型原理,将纱线色彩变化与形态变化相结合,在普通竹节纱的基础上,分析了一种粗细节段彩竹节纱的形成机理,提出粗细节段彩竹节纱时序化分布的设计方法;根据数控三通道环锭纺纱调控成型纱线粗细和混纺比的机理,使用基于时序化分布的纱线结构参数进行粗细节段彩竹节纱数控加工;设计了12种具有粗细节特征的段彩竹节纱花型与成纱工艺方法,纺制了4种具有粗细节特征的段彩竹节纱及其织物。To explore the forming principle of fancy yarn,the color change and shape change of yarn were combined.On the basis of ordinary slub yarn,the formation mechanism of a thick and thin segment colored slub yarn was analyzed,and the design method of sequential distribution of thick and thin segment colored slub yarn was proposed.Based on the mechanism of numerical control three-channel ring spinning to regulate the thickness and blending ratio of formed yarn,yarn structure parameters based on time-sequential distribution were processed by numerical control processing of thick and thin segment colored slub yarn.Twelve patterns and yarn forming methods of segment colored slub yarns with thickness and thinness slub characteristics were designed,and four kinds of segment colored slub yarns and their fabrics with thickness and thinness slub characteristics were spun.

关 键 词：数控纺纱 段彩竹节纱 粗细节 纺制模式 工艺设计 

分 类 号：TS104.1.6[轻工技术与工程—纺织工程]