广绣金银线绣的工艺特征及地域特色  

Process Characteristics and Regional Features of Gold Silver Thread Embroidery of Guangxiu

作　　者：李晋 LI Jin(Exhibition Research Department,Guangzhou Museum,Guangzhou 510045,China)

机构地区：[1]广州博物馆陈列研究部,广东广州510045

出　　处：《服装学报》2022年第6期498-505,共8页Journal of Clothing Research

基　　金：教育部哲学社会科学研究重大课题攻关项目(21JZD048)。

摘　　要：广绣金银线绣是广绣艺术中极具代表性的工艺技法之一,具有很高的艺术价值。立足馆藏实物结合文献佐证,对广绣金银线绣的历史脉络、工艺特征及地域特色进行考证,梳理其以平绣、编绣、绕绣、凸绣、贴花绣为主的针法,以龙凤等为主的刺绣主题和“威”彩的色彩形态;指出传统金银线绣以男工“花佬”为主、女工为辅,在风格上形成了华贵艳丽、像生施绣、繁复精巧的岭南特色。Gold silver thread embroidery is one of the most representative techniques in the art of Guangxiu.Based on the material objects in the collection and the documentary evidence,this paper made a textual research on the historical context,technological characteristics and regional characteristics of the gold silver thread embroidery of Guangxiu,and summarized its meticulous needlework mainly including plain embroidery,weaving embroidery,winding embroidery,convex embroidery and decal embroidery,various embroidery themes and the color form of"prestige and lightness".It pointed out that the traditional gold silver thread embroidery was dominated by male"flower men"and supplemented by female workers,which had formed the Lingnan characteristics of luxurious and gorgeous style,as well as complex and exquisite embroidery.

关 键 词：广绣 金银线绣 历史发展 工艺特征 地域文化 

分 类 号：J523.6[艺术—艺术设计]