从人物画解读唐宋时期女性内衣变化  

Interpreting the Changes of Women's Underwear in Tang and Song Dynasties from the Figure Paintings

作　　者：傅茗琪 梁惠娥[1,2,3] FU Mingqi;LIANG Hui'e(School of Design,Jiangnan University,Wuxi 214122,China;Intangible Cultural Heritage Research Base in Jiangsu Province,Jiangnan University,Wuxi 214122,China;School of Media and Arts,Wuxi University,Wuxi 214063,China)

机构地区：[1]江南大学设计学院,江苏无锡214122 [2]江南大学江苏省非物质文化遗产研究基地,江苏无锡214122 [3]无锡学院传媒与艺术学院,江苏无锡214063

出　　处：《服装学报》2022年第6期514-522,共9页Journal of Clothing Research

基　　金：国家社会科学基金艺术学一般项目(21BG142)。

摘　　要：以唐宋时期传世人物画中的女性内衣为研究对象,整理与女性内衣相关的文字与实物资料,结合历史文化背景,分别从服装形制、图案纹样、时尚风俗等方面对唐代与宋代的女性外衣和内衣进行比较,深度挖掘唐宋时期女性内衣的变化及其影响因素。研究表明:唐宋时期女性内衣变化主要受国家政治稳定性、女性社会地位、礼制的发展与变革以及文化与宗教的影响。唐代社会氛围相对宽松,女性内衣的形制、色彩与穿着方式受外来文化的影响较大,色彩绚丽、雍容华贵;宋代胡风渐消,朝廷重文轻武,内衣形制趋于纤小,色彩平淡素雅。Taking the women's underwears in the figure paintings handed down from Tang and Song Dynasties as the research objects,sorting out the text and material data related to the women's underwear,and combining with the historical and cultural background,this paper compared the women's outerwear and underwear between Tang and Song Dynasties from the aspects of clothing shape,patterns,fashion customs,and deeply explored the changes and influencing factors of women's underwear in Tang and Song Dynasties.The research shows that the changes of women's underwear in Tang and Song Dynasties were mainly influenced by the political stability of the country,the women's social status,the development and reform of etiquette,the culture and religion.The social atmosphere of Tang Dynasty was relatively relaxed.The shape,color and wearing style of women's underwear were greatly influenced by foreign culture,with gorgeous colors,elegance and luxury,showing magnificent beauty.In Song Dynasty,Hu's manner gradually faded away,and the court attached importance to literature over martial arts.The shape of underwear gradually became slim,and the colors were plain and elegant.

关 键 词：人物画 唐宋时期 女性内衣 服饰特征 比较研究 

分 类 号：TS941.12[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程] K879.4[历史地理—考古学及博物馆学]