霞帔形制发展特征及内涵  

Development Characteristics and Connotation of the Shape of Xiapei

作　　者：邵文静 张宁[1] SHAO Wenjing;ZHANG Ning(Nanchang Key Laboratory of Fashion Digital System Design,Jiangxi Institute of Fashion Technology,Nanchang 330201,China)

机构地区：[1]江西服装学院南昌市服装数字化系统设计重点实验室,江西南昌330201

出　　处：《服装学报》2022年第6期523-532,共10页Journal of Clothing Research

基　　金：江西省教育厅科学技术研究项目(GJJ191078)。

摘　　要：霞帔的初始形态为“披帛”,是挂于服饰外的一种衣饰,其在宋代开始被收入服制,由俗入礼并在装饰上愈加繁缛。通过对霞帔形制的比较和考物研究,并结合古籍、报告与图像资料等,梳理霞帔形制的发展史。研究表明,霞帔形制结构由披帛样式发展而来,并与各民族世俗文化、典章碰撞杂糅,最终被纳入礼制;历经朝代更迭,霞帔自宽幅长条至清式阔如背心,古制新式,清末,其形制脱离“礼教”走向新的艺术表现形式。霞帔形制的变迁过程彰显了中国传统服饰的宽博与活力。The initial form of xiapei is called"pibo",which is a kind of clothing hanging outside the clothing,it was introduced into the dress system from the Song Dynasty,from vulgarity to ceremony,and became more and more cumbersome in decoration.In this paper,the shape and system of xiapei were compared and studied combined with ancient books,reports and image materials,and the historical facts of xiapei shape and system development were summarized.This research showed that the shape and structure of xiapei evolved from the style of draped silk,collided and mixed with the secular culture and laws of various nationalities,and finally entered the ritual system.Through the changes of dynasties,xiapei changed from a wide strip to a Qing style as a broad strip as vest from the ancient system to a new style.At the end of the Qing Dynasty,its shape finally broke away from"ethics"and moved towards a new form of artistic expression.The changing process of xiapei shape shows the broadness and vitality of Chinese traditional clothing.

关 键 词：披帛 霞帔 形制 传统礼教 民族融合 

分 类 号：TS941.7[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]