精纺毛织物的连续液氨整理  

Continuous liquid ammonia finishing of worsted fabrics

作　　者：商显芹 王强[1] 姜哲 马海涛 胡素娟 张登陆 SHANG Xianqin;WANG Qiang;JIANG Zhe;MA Haitao;HU Sujuan;ZHANG Denglu(Key Laboratory of Eco-Textiles(Jiangnan University),Ministry of Education,Wuxi,Jiangsu 214122,China;Shandong Ruyi Technology Group Co.Ltd.,Jining,Shangdong 272073,China)

机构地区：[1]生态纺织教育部重点实验室(江南大学),江苏无锡214122 [2]山东如意科技集团有限公司,山东济宁272073

出　　处：《毛纺科技》2022年第12期26-31,共6页Wool Textile Journal

基　　金：国家重点研发计划项目(2017YFB0309200);江苏省研究生培养创新工程项目(KYCX18_1832)。

摘　　要：为考察液氨对羊毛结构与性能的影响,采用已商业化应用的连续性液氨整理设备对精纺毛织物进行批量化处理,探讨液氨对羊毛纤维表面形态、化学结构、大分子结构和织物强力、毡缩性等性能的影响。结果表明:液氨处理可一定程度上破坏羊毛表面鳞片结构,且可将大分子肽链间的二硫键断裂形成胱氨酸氧化物。红外光谱测试结果表明,液氨处理后羊毛大分子结构中的α-螺旋及无规卷曲含量增加,β-折叠含量降低。此外,液氨处理使得羊毛织物折皱回复角提高6%,面积毡缩率下降18%,对羊毛织物的抗皱与防毡缩性能有一定改善作用。In order to investigate the effect of liquid ammonia on the structure and properties of wool,the worsted fabrics were batch treated by a commercial continuous liquid ammonia finishing machine,and the effects of liquid ammonia on the surface morphology,chemical structure,macromolecular structure,strength and felting properties of wool fabric were explored.The results show that the surface scale structure of wool after liquid ammonia treatment is damaged to a certain extent,and the disulfide bonds between macromolecular peptide chains break to form cystine oxides.The results of FTIR show that the contents ofα-helix and random crimp structure increase,while theβ-sheet decrease after liquid ammonia treatment.In addition,the crease recovery angle of wool fabrics is increased by 6%and the area felting shrinkage is decreased by 18%,which has an improvement on the anti-crease and anti-felt performance of wool fabric.

关 键 词：精纺毛织物 液氨整理 表面形态 化学结构 防毡缩性能 

分 类 号：TS131.8[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]