全成形运动内衣的设计原理与开发实践  

Design principle and development practice of fully formed sports underwear

作　　者：巫晓雯 丛洪莲 蔡晨原 黄娴 WU Xiaowen;CONG Honglian;CAI Chenyuan;HUANG Xian(Engineering Research Center for Knitting Technology,Ministry of Education,Jiangnan University,Wuxi,Jiangsu 214122,China;Wuxi Pacific Knitting Co.,Ltd.,Wuxi,Jiangsu 214041,China)

机构地区：[1]江南大学教育部针织技术工程研究中心,江苏无锡214122 [2]无锡太平针织有限公司,江苏无锡214041

出　　处：《毛纺科技》2022年第12期42-47,共6页Wool Textile Journal

基　　金：国家自然科学基金项目(61902150)。

摘　　要：为了深入探讨针织运动内衣一体成形编织的原理与方法,从运动内衣的款式结构特征出发,设计了3款全成形针织运动内衣,对其中1款全成形运动内衣的成形工艺原理进行分析,并运用MACH2-153X型岛精四针床全成形电脑横机实现编织。研究表明:全成形运动内衣大身整体采用2×2罗纹结构,通过局部均匀收放针可以得到衣身的整体曲线;腋下改变编织度目,可使其获得更好的透气性;肩带及底围采用双层结构,为胸部提供更大的支撑的同时又能避免摩擦和重力对人体造成伤害。文章为今后全成形运动内衣的开发提供了一定的理论依据。In order to deeply explore the principle and method of integrated forming knitting of knitted sports underwear,three kinds of fully formed knitted sports underwear were designed starting from the analysis of the style and structural characteristics of sports underwear,then the forming process principle of fully formed sports underwear was analyzed,and the sports underwear was realized by the fully formed computerized MACH2-153X Shima Seiki four needle bed flat knitting machine.The results show that the whole body adopts 2×2 rib structure,the overall curve of the garment body can be obtained through local uniform retraction and release of the needle.Better air permeability can be obtained by changing the knitting degree under the armpit.Double-layer structure adopted in the shoulder strap and bottom circumference,which can not only provide greater support for the chest,but also avoid injury to the human body due to friction and gravity.which provides a certain theoretical basis for the development of full forming sports underwear in the future.

关 键 词：针织 全成形 运动内衣 编织工艺 四针床 

分 类 号：TS184.5[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]