表面活性剂与皮肤相互作用的研究进展  

Research progress on the interactions between surfactants and skin

作　　者：李强 龚盛昭 万岳鹏[1] 孟潇 Qiang Li;Shengzhao Gong;Yuepeng Wan;Xiao Meng(Guangzhou Uniasia Cosmetic Technology Co.,Ltd.,Guangzhou,Guangdong 510668,China;Guangdong Industry Technical College,Guangzhou,Guangdong 510300,China)

机构地区：[1]广州环亚化妆品科技股份有限公司,广东广州510668 [2]广东轻工职业技术学院,广东广州510300

出　　处：《日用化学工业（中英文）》2023年第1期71-78,共8页China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics

摘　　要：表面活性剂作为个人护理清洁产品的主要清洁成分,会直接接触皮肤进而与皮肤产生不同的作用。表面活性剂对皮肤的刺激性与其结构、类型、浓度、暴露时间、皮肤状态等多种因素相关。在清洁过程中,皮肤表面的污垢被表面活性剂增溶带入水中,表面活性剂也会与细胞间脂质相互作用加剧对皮肤屏障功能的破坏,导致皮肤干燥紧绷。但随着表面活性剂的进一步渗透并迁移到更深的皮层,会对活的表皮细胞如角质形成细胞产生破坏作用,并引起皮肤的局部炎症反应。文章简要概述了表面活性剂在水溶液中的基本性质及其结构与刺激性的联系,对表面活性剂的皮肤渗透理论模型、以及对皮肤脂质和活细胞的影响进行了归纳总结,并从个人护理产品配方角度出发,对表面活性剂降低皮肤刺激性的方法进行了可行性的展望。Surfactants are the main cleaning ingredients in personal care and cleaning products,which may have diverse effects on the skin.The potential of surfactants in skin irritation is related to surfactant structure,concentration,exposure time/frequency,initial skin condition and other factors.During the cleaning process,oil,dirt,sweat and sebum are removed through the action of surfactants.Surfactants may interact with the surface of the epidermis causing denaturation of proteins and induce the elution and damage to the structure of the intercellular cement of stratum corneum.Consequently,consumers may experience a range of cutaneous symptoms including dry skin,burning sensation,and loss of skin elasticity.Meanwhile,as the surfactants penetrate into deeper skin layers,there will be a damaging effect on living cells such as keratinocytes and it leads to a local inflammatory response,causing the release of inflammatory mediators from cells.This process may result in topical skin lesions presenting as red skin,desquamation and erythema.This paper presented a review of literature on the interactions between surfactants and skin.The surfactant behavior in solution,the relationship between surfactant structure and skin irritation,and the interactions with skin lipids and living skin cells were discussed.The future development of methods for reducing skin irritation potential for household chemicals and body wash cosmetics was prospected.

关 键 词：表面活性剂 皮肤刺激 角质层 个人护理产品 

分 类 号：TQ423[化学工程]