半掩半露之间:盛唐女性“袒领衫”服饰流行风追踪  

Half-covered and Half-revealed:Tracking the Trend of Women’s “Open-necked shirt” Clothing in the Tang Dynasty

作　　者：葛承雍 Ge Chengyong

机构地区：[1]陕师大人文社科高等研究院 [2]敦煌研究院丝路研究中心

出　　处：《艺术设计研究》2022年第6期15-23,共9页Art & Design Research

基　　金：2020年国家社科基金冷门绝学专项“敦煌壁画外来图像文明属性研究”(项目编号:20VJXT014)的阶段性成果。

摘　　要：本文利用唐代考古出土文物实证“袒胸露乳”的女性服装,依据半隐半显的视觉证据定名为“袒领装”新样。“袒领装”流行于永徽年间至开元天宝时期,大概半个多世纪,不仅是身体与服装结合的表征,也承载着唐代社会、身份、性别和时代的风尚。“袒领装”只是中古服装潮流中昙花一现的表现,针对学界的传统看法认为“袒胸露乳”装束来源于西方、印度的外来风,作者考证比对后怀疑这一说法,认为“露”与“不露”不必急于定论,关键是厘清这种风潮来源何处,还有待于进一步研究。This article uses the archaeological unearthed cultural relics of the Tang Dynasty to demonstrate the “topless and exposed breasts” women’s clothing, and based on the half-hidden and half-explicit visual evidence, it is named the new style of “topless collar clothing”. “Neckless clothing” was popular from the Yonghui period to the Kaiyuan Tianbao period for more than half a century. It is not only a symbol of the combination of body and clothing but also carries the social, identity, gender, and fashion of the Tang Dynasty. “Neckless dress” is just a short-lived manifestation of the fashion trend in the Middle Ages. In view of the traditional view of the academic circles that “topless breasts and breasts” dress comes from the West and India, the author doubts this statement after textual research and comparison and believes that there is no need to rush to a conclusion with “revealing” or “not revealing”. The key is to clarify where this trend comes from, and further research is yet to be done.

关 键 词：盛唐女性 袒领服装 时尚表征 来源考释 

分 类 号：J523[艺术—艺术设计] J18