不同配棉和捻系数对牛仔面料风格的影响  

Influence of different cotton assorting and twist factor on the style of denim fabric

作　　者：蔡文杰 王波 CAI Wenjie;WANG Bo(Jiangsu Clean Air Environmental Sci-Tec Co.Ltd.,Nantong 226007,China)

机构地区：[1]江苏优风环保科技有限公司,江苏南通226007

出　　处：《染整技术》2023年第1期47-49,共3页Textile Dyeing and Finishing Journal

摘　　要：探讨不同的配棉和捻系数纱线对牛仔面料颜色和水洗风格的影响。分别采用低配棉和高配棉面料、低捻纱和高捻纱面料进行染色,利用CHES-FY纺织材料手感风格测试仪对水洗后的面料风格进行了测试。结果表明:配棉成熟度越高,颜色越深,水洗后的面料花度越自然;配棉中处理棉质量分数越高,面料色牢度越差;配棉对面料的手感风格影响不大。低捻纱面料颜色最深,布面纹路清晰度最好;高捻纱面料布面有条花,纹路清晰度差;低捻纱面料柔软度和滑爽度好,适合作薄款针织牛仔面料,高捻纱面料硬挺度和松紧度高,适合作风格粗犷的牛仔面料。The effects of different cotton assorting and twist factor on the color and wash style of denim fabrics are explored. The fabrics with low and high cotton assorting, and the fabrics of low and high twist yarns are used for dyeing respectively, and the style of the fabric after washing is tested by CHES-FY textile material feel style tester. The results show that when the cotton maturity is higher, the color is darker, and the fabric after washing is more natural. The higher the quality fraction of recycled cotton in the cotton assorting, the colour fastness of the fabric is worse. The cotton assorting has little effect on the feel and style of the fabric. The fabrics of low twist yarn have the darkest color and the best texture definition. The fabrics of high twist yarn have stripes on the surface and poor texture clarity. The fabrics of low twist yarn have good softness and smoothness, and are suitable for thin knitted denim fabrics. The fabrics of high twist yarn have high stiffness and tightness, and is suitable for rough denim fabrics.

关 键 词：配棉 捻系数 牛仔面料 颜色 风格 

分 类 号：TS102[轻工技术与工程—纺织工程]