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作 者:冯英杰 蒋高明[1] 吴光军 金帅 FENG Yingjie;JIANG Gaoming;WU Guangjun;JIN Shuai(Engineering Research Center for Knitting Technology,Ministry of Education,Jiangnan University,Wuxi,Jiangsu 214122,China;Shandong Ruyi Technology Group Co.,Ltd.,Jining,Shandong 272000,China)
机构地区:[1]江南大学针织技术教育部工程研究中心,江苏无锡214122 [2]山东如意科技集团有限公司,山东济宁272000
出 处:《纺织学报》2023年第1期112-118,共7页Journal of Textile Research
基 金:国家自然科学基金项目(61772238);泰山产业领军人才项目(20180224)。
摘 要:为探究电脑横机开发全成形针织产品的更多可能性,以针织运动护膝为研究对象,探究全成形局部结构变化原理,并进行工艺实践。首先通过三维扫描系统获取膝盖数据,确定护膝的二维纸样尺寸,将工艺参数代入二维纸样中的尺寸获得护膝整体的针织工艺模型;再对护膝局部变化组织进行开发设计,通过双针床电脑横机和SDS-ONE APEX3系统开发全成形局部多层结构,在护膝的髌骨部分和侧边设计不同的线圈结构来实现保护功能。结果表明:在膝盖髌骨部位用全成形方法编织的3层线圈结构来代替传统的防护材料,质量减少68.2%;同时,全成形编织方法省去了编织后裁剪与缝合等工序,减少原料损耗,节约人工成本。Objective In order to explore possibilities of developing whole garment knitted products with computerized flat knitting machines,different design methods and forming processes of whole garment products were explored.Taking the knitted sports knee pads as the research object,the design method of the one-piece local multi-layer structure was established by local structure manipulation,leading to the development of various fully formed products with required functionalities.Method The knee data was obtained by the three-dimensional scanning system,the two-dimensional paper sample size of the knee pads was determined,and the dimensions of the process parameters were substituted into the two-dimensional paper sample to obtain the knitting process parameters for the one-piece knee pads.Local change stitch for knee pads was experimented and designed,and the one-piece partial multi-layer structure was developed by the double needle bed computerized flat knitting machine and the SDS-ONE APEX3 software system.Different loop structures were designed in the patella part and sides of the knee pads to achieve the required protection.Results With the cooperation of the special yarn self-propelling mouth of the double needle bed computerized flat knitting machine,density triangle and elastic yarn feeder,a three-layer loop structure was knitted at the knee patella(Fig.6),to knit a section of knitted fabric with certain thickness and good elasticity to replace the conventional protective materials.High elastic rubber band and camel hair(Fig.10)were used to increase the elasticity of the overall and local multi-layer structures of the whole garment motion knee pad.Through orthogonal test,the best knitting scheme was determined,and the knee pads with the highest elastic recovery rate(Tab.2)was obtained.Using the double needle bed computerized flat knitting machine,a section of plain/ring/plain local multi-layer structure was knitted in the knee pad to replace the silicone protective sheet of the conventional sports knee pad.On both
分 类 号:TS184.5[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]
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