扫描人体外包围计算与上衣原型应用分析  

Scanning human body outer circumference calculation and upper prototype application analysis

作　　者：夏明[1,2] 张理想 许霄 XIA Ming;ZHANG Lixiang;XU Xiao(College of Fashion and Design,Ministry of Education,Donghua University,Shanghai 200051,China;Key Laboratory of Clothing Design and Technology,Ministry of Education,Donghua University,Shanghai 200051,China)

机构地区：[1]东华大学服装与艺术设计学院,上海200051 [2]东华大学现代服装设计与技术教育部重点实验室,上海200051

出　　处：《丝绸》2023年第1期78-87,共10页Journal of Silk

基　　金：中央高校基本科研业务费专项资金资助项目(2232020G-08)。

摘　　要：为了得到科学合理的女装紧身上衣的松量分布规律,文章以449名女性人体模型的体型数据为依据,提出一种基于三维人体模型提取并测量胸围上外包围的方法。以胸围上外包围曲线上各特征点为导向点,将提取的腰围凸包曲线和胸围凸包曲线划分为12段并计算各段围度差,得到各体型紧身原型围度松量分布规律,并通过回归分析得到胸围上外包围、原型胸围松量与胸围的回归关系。基于腰围松量分布规律定义了各腰省的省量计算方式,统计分析出紧身原型、不同衣身构成腰省省量分布及各省量与总腰围松量的回归关系。Clothing ease,which refers to the amount of the space between clothing and human body,is one of the most important factors affecting the comfort and compatibility of clothing.Studying the distribution law of garment ease is not only an important way to improve the rationality of clothing structure design and clothing comfort,but also a key technology to realize intelligent pattern making.In the tops’structure,the waist shape affects the fitness and comfort of the tight top.Furthermore,the waist and abdomen morphology has large differences in different body shapes,so the reasonable allocation of dart quantity based on body shape can improve the clothing fitness.Traditional top ease studies are based on the girth of the body surface bust line or the minimum circumference of the upper body.However,there is a gap between the human body surface size and the manual measurement size.For the body with anterior waist,using the minimum outer circumference of the upper body may cause excessive bust ease.In order to obtain the scientific and reasonable ease distribution rules of women’s tight tops,a method to extract and measure the outer circumference of the upper body above chest was proposed.Based on the data of 449 female mannequins,the point set of the grid models of the human trunk between the panel passing BNP(back neck point)and bust panel was firstly extracted(human shoulder points and arm protrusion were not included).Based on the above,the convex hull of the point set was calculated by Graham scanning to obtain the outer circumference curve of the upper body above chest.Secondly,the body surface bust line and waist line were extracted,and the convex hull of each profile curve was calculated to obtain bust section curve and waist section curve.According to national standard,the body types of 449 samples were divided into four categories:Y,A,B and C by chest and waist difference.The mean of point coordinates on bust section curve,waist section curve and the outer circumference curve of the upper body above chest

关 键 词：原型结构 三维扫描 胸围上外包围 体型分类 胸围松量 腰省量 

分 类 号：TS941.17[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]