纬编起绒面料性能研究  

Properties Study of the Weft Knitted Fleecy Fabric

作　　者：乔志洁 李天剑 张佩华[1] 蒋圣敏 Qiao Zhijie;Li Tianjian;Zhang Peihua;Jiang Shengmin(College of Textiles,Donghua University,Shanghai 201620,China;Shanghai Threegun(Group)Co.,Ltd.,Shanghai 201620,China)

机构地区：[1]东华大学纺织学院,上海201620 [2]上海三枪(集团)有限公司,上海201620

出　　处：《针织工业》2023年第1期15-16,17,共3页Knitting Industries

基　　金：东方国际(集团)有限公司技术创新项目(2020-SQ-1)。

摘　　要：分别选用细旦腈纶、德绒、木代尔、细旦涤纶以及氨纶为原料,通过拉绒、刷绒的起绒方式制备3种双罗纹起绒面料以及1种单面集圈起绒面料。测试分析面料基本参数及硬挺性能、顶破性能、悬垂性能、热湿性能、透气性能、抗起毛起球性能、水洗后尺寸稳定性、落毛率、蓬松性能等。结果表明:细旦腈纶、黏胶、涤纶(20∶20∶60)紧密赛络纺色纱与细旦涤纶长丝+氨纶交织编织制备的双罗纹起绒面料的柔软性能、热湿舒适性能较优,精梳长绒棉纱与氨纶交织的双罗纹起绒面料的抗起毛起球性能较好,单面起绒面料的落毛率较少,为起绒面料的开发提供参考。Using fine-denier acrylic, Dralon, Modal, fine-denier polyester and spandex as raw materials respectively,three interlock fleecy fabrics and one single-sided tuck fleecy fabric are prepared by napping and brushing technology.The basic parameters of the fabric and its stiffness performance, bursting, drape performance, thermal and moisture performance, air permeability, anti-pilling performance, dimensional stability after washing, lint rate, and bulky performance are tested and analyzed. The results show that the softness, thermal and wet comfort performance of the interlock fleecy fabric prepared by the fine denier acrylic/viscose/polyester(20∶20∶60)compact siro spun dyed yarn and the fine denier polyester filament plus spandex alternately are better, the interlock fleecy fabric interlaced with combed long-staple cotton yarn and spandex has better anti-pilling performance, and the single-sided fleecy fabric has a lower lint drop rate.

关 键 词：纬编 起绒面料 拉绒 刷绒 热湿舒适性 落毛率 蓬松性 

分 类 号：TS184.4[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]