牛仔用锦纶66包芯纱的设计优化  

Design optimization of polyamide 66 core-spun yarn for denim fabric

作　　者：刘玉萌 陈文 张瑞云[1] 刘显煜 李杰 LIU Yumeng;CHEN Wen;ZHANG Ruiyun;LIU Xianyu;LI Jie(Donghua University,Shanghai,201620,China;Fujian Xinhuayuan Textile Group Co.,Ltd.,Fuzhou,350200,China;China Cotton Textile Association,Beijing,100027,China)

机构地区：[1]东华大学,上海201620 [2]福建新华源纺织集团有限公司,福建福州350200 [3]中国棉纺织行业协会,北京100027

出　　处：《棉纺织技术》2023年第2期64-69,共6页Cotton Textile Technology

摘　　要：为了丰富牛仔用包芯纱的种类,分别以锦纶66 33.3 dtex/34 F、锦纶66 33.3 dtex/10 F为芯丝,以粘胶、莱赛尔短纤为外包纤维,设计了36.4 tex、28.1 tex、18.5 tex共12种牛仔用包芯纱。通过优化纺纱各工序工艺,在细纱机上采用赛络包芯纱技术成功试制了12种锦纶66包芯纱。通过包芯纱横截面图像比较,分析对比了包覆效果;通过断裂强力、条干CV值和毛羽指标测试,分析对比了包芯纱的性能指标。结果表明:当包芯纱外包纤维相同时,以锦纶66 33.3 dtex/10 F为芯丝,包芯纱的包覆效果和性能指标较优;当包芯纱芯丝相同时,以莱赛尔为外包纤维的包芯纱外观风格和性能指标较优。认为:综合包覆效果、纱线风格和性能指标,采用以锦纶6633.3 dtex/10 F为芯丝、莱赛尔为外包纤维的牛仔用包芯纱是牛仔产品的优选用纱。In order to enrich the types of core-spun yarns for denim fabric,polyamide 66 33.3 dtex/34 F and polyamide 66 33.3 dtex/10 F were taken as core yarn,viscose and Lyocell staple fiber were taken as covering fibers,twelve kinds of core-spun yarns for denim fabric were designed,including 36.4 tex,28.1 tex and 18.5 tex yarn.By optimizing spinning process,twelve kinds of polyamide 66 core-spun yarn were successfully spun on spinning frame by using siro core-spun yarn technology. By comparing the cross section images of core-spun yarn,covering effect was analyzed and compared.Property indexes of core-spun yarn were analyzed and compared by the tests of breaking strength,eveness CV and hairiness.The results showed when the covering fibers were same,polyamide 6633.3 dtex/10 F was taken as core yarn,covering effect and property index of the core-spun yarn were better.When the core yarns were same,appearance style and property index of core-spun yarn with Lyocell as the covering fiber were better.It is considered that denim core-spun yarn with polyamide 66 33.3 dtex/10 F as core yarn and Lyocell as covering fiber is the preferred yarn for denim products based on covering effect,yarn style and property index.

关 键 词：锦纶66 包芯纱 牛仔织物 赛络纺 包覆效果 性能指标 粘胶 莱赛尔 

分 类 号：TS104.79[轻工技术与工程—纺织工程]