双面双色和多功能真丝素绉缎的制备及性能研究  

Preparation and properties of multifunctional silk crepe satin with double colors on both sides

作　　者：崔豪杰 艾丽 曹红梅[3] 徐明 朱亚伟[1] CUI Haojie;AI Li;CAO Hongmei;XU Ming;ZHU Yawei(College of Textile and Clothing Engineering,Soochow University,Suzhou 215021,China;College of Chemistry and Chemical Engineering,Wuhan Textile University,Wuhan 430200,China;College of Textile,Changzhou Vocational Institute of Textitle and Garment,Changzhou 213164,China;Changzhou Sealanguage Textile Co.,Ltd.,Changzhou 213125,China)

机构地区：[1]苏州大学纺织与服装工程学院,江苏苏州215021 [2]武汉纺织大学化学与化工学院,武汉430200 [3]常州纺织服装职业技术学院纺织学院,江苏常州213164 [4]常州喜莱维纺织科技有限公司,江苏常州213125

出　　处：《丝绸》2023年第2期68-74,共7页Journal of Silk

基　　金：纺织行业纺织材料阻燃整理重点实验室项目(Q811580421);江苏省高等学校自然科学研究项目(21KJA540003)。

摘　　要：功能性真丝面料是印染加工的发展趋势。本文以自制纳米级水性炭黑、涂料红、黏合剂E101、交联剂SJ-1805和合成增稠剂PFN为材料,采用炭黑轧染和涂料印花的焙烘固色方法制备了双面双色真丝面料。探讨了炭黑、黏合剂和交联剂对织物色深度、透光率、抗静电、抗紫外和色牢度的影响。结果表明,采用15.0%水性炭黑、15.0%黏合剂E101和15.0%交联剂SJ-1805的炭黑轧染,以及2.0%涂料大红G-11、8.0%黏合剂E101和2.0%合成增稠剂PFN的涂料印花工艺,制备出黑色底和暗红色面的双色和多功能织物,抗静电性为A级,紫外线防护系数达到50+,摩擦和皂洗色牢度不低于3~4级,且具有优异的透气性和透湿性;双色织物的一面具有良好的亲水性,另一面具有优异的拒水性。因黏合剂和交联剂的作用,双面双色真丝素绉缎的风格表现为表面平整、光滑和不易弯曲。Silk has been a historical and cultural treasure of China for thousands of years and is loved by public consumers.Gambiered Guangdong silk fabric prepared by traditional technology is a functional fabric with double colors on both sides,but its development is limited by the complicated dyeing process and expensive prices.With the popularity of functional sports fabrics,the development of multifunctional silk fabrics becomes extremely important.Based on the growing market demand for silk textiles with anti-static,anti-UV and water repellent functions,the use of carbon-based materials(e.g.,carbon black)to achieve the double-sided and double-colored function of silk fabrics will be of great significance to the silk printing and dyeing process.Carbon black is both an inexpensive gray-black color and imparts versatility due to its rich polar groups,which provides the basis for the short process that integrates dyeing and functional finishing.To enrich the color diversity of carbon black dyeing,we prepared a multifunctional silk crepe stain of double sides and double colors by combining pigment printing and carbon black dyeing.In this way,the high added value and color artistic expression of silk fabrics can be fully exerted,which provides a new approach to the development of functional sports fabrics made of silk.In this paper,a nano-scale water-based carbon black emulsion was prepared by the zirconia milling method in the presence of AL50 auxiliaries(anionic/nonionic surfactant complex)and an anti-settling agent AF(nonionic complex).By using the curing method of pigment printing after carbon black dyeing,a multifunctional silk crepe stain with black color on one side and dark red color on the other side was prepared.We explored the effects of the mass fraction of water-based carbon black,binder E101,and cross-linking agent SJ-1805 on the color depth,light transmittance,anti-static and anti-UV properties,and rubbing color fastness of fabrics were investigated by optimizing the dyeing process of water-based carbon blac

关 键 词：水性炭黑 涂料 抗紫外线 抗静电 拒水性 真丝 

分 类 号：TS195.644[轻工技术与工程—纺织化学与染整工程]