媒染对柿漆棉织物颜色与性能的影响  

Effects of mordant dyeing on color and properties of persimmon lacquer cotton fabrics

作　　者：孙晓楠 王利君[1,2,3] SUN Xiaonan;WANG Lijun(School of Fashion Design&Engineering,Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Hangzhou 310018,China;Zhejiang Provincial Research Center of Fashion Engineering Technology,Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Hangzhou 310018,China;MOC KeyLaboratory of Silk Culture Heritage and Product Design Digital Technology,Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Hangzhou 310018,China)

机构地区：[1]浙江理工大学服装学院,杭州310018 [2]浙江理工大学浙江省服装工程技术研究中心,杭州310018 [3]浙江理工大学丝绸文化传承与产品设计数字化技术文化和旅游部重点实验室,杭州310018

出　　处：《丝绸》2023年第2期75-83,共9页Journal of Silk

基　　金：国家自然科学基金资助项目(11471287);浙江省服装工程技术研究中心省部级重点实验室开放基金项目(2019FZKF09);中国纺织工业协会资助项目(J201801);浙江理工大学科研启动基金项目(17072191-Y)。

摘　　要：针对棉织物柿漆染色色调单一的问题,文章采用绿矾作为媒染剂,通过前媒染、后媒染和直接染色工艺,探讨了媒染工艺参数对柿漆染色棉织物颜色(K/S值)的影响;运用正交实验设计方案,获取最佳柿漆媒染染色工艺,同时分析了柿漆媒染棉织物的服用性能和抗紫外线性能。结果表明:媒染工艺为温度30℃、媒染剂质量浓度0.25 g/L、时间30 min时,媒染棉织物的K/S值较大;柿漆前媒染、后媒染染色工艺为染色8次、稀释比例1︰3、pH值10、日照时间20 h。运用前媒染、后媒染和直接染色工艺依次得到了茶褐色、蓝黑色和黄棕色调,柿漆媒染棉织物具有优良的耐用性、热湿舒适性、色牢度和抗紫外线性能。Cotton fabrics are widely used in daily life for their soft handle,excellent breathability and low prices.However,cotton fabrics have multiple disadvantages such as poor UV resistance,easiness to be damaged by bacteria and susceptibility to moisture.With the increasingly serious environmental pollution,people have began to pursue environmentally friendly natural plant dyeing.As a special plant dye,persimmon lacquer not only has the function of dyeing,but the dyed fabrics have certain waterproof and UV resistance properties.Cotton fabrics directly dyed with persimmon lacquer show a brown color,and have unique style and stiff handle,making up for the poor anti-ultraviolet performance of cotton fabrics to a certain extent.Studies have found that mordant dyeing can not only change the color tone presented,but also improve the color fastness of dyed fabrics.This study aims to solve the problem of single dyeing tone of persimmon lacquer on cotton fabrics and to enrich the diversity of color tones of cotton fabrics dyed with persimmon lacquer.We used green-vitriol as the mordant,and discussed the effects of mordant temperature,mordant concentration and mordant treatment time on the color(K/S value)of cotton fabrics dyed with persimmon paint through pre-mordant dyeing,post-mordant dyeing and direct dyeing.We also explored the effects of the dyeing time,dilution ratio,pH value and sunshine time on color change,and obtained the best dyeing process with persimmon lacquer mordant by using orthogonal experimental design.At the same time,we analyzed the wearability and ultraviolet resistance of cotton fabric dyed with persimmon lacquer mordant.The results show that the K/S value of mordant-dyed cotton fabric is high when the temperature is 30℃,the concentration is 0.25 g/L and the time is 30 min.The dyeing process of pre-mordant dyeing and post mordant dyeing persimmon lacquer requires dyeing for eight times,dilution ratio of 1︰3,pH value of 10 and sunshine time of 20 h.Using the pre-mordant dyeing,post mordant dyeing and

关 键 词：柿漆 媒染 棉织物 染色工艺 色谱 抗紫外线性能 

分 类 号：TS193.639.2[轻工技术与工程—纺织化学与染整工程]