纬编单导凉感双面轻薄织物结构设计与性能  

Structural design and performance of weft-knitted unidirectional anddouble-sided fabrics with cooling sensation and light weight

作　　者：姚懿宸 董智佳 姚馨馨 葛美彤 YAO Yichen;DONG Zhijia;YAO Xinxin;GE Meitong(Engineering Research Center for Knitting Technology,Ministry of Education,Jiangnan University,Wuxi 214122,China;Wuxi Hengnuo Textile Technology Co.,Ltd.,Wuxi 214105,China)

机构地区：[1]江南大学针织技术教育部工程研究中心,江苏无锡214122 [2]无锡恒诺纺织科技有限公司,江苏无锡214105

出　　处：《丝绸》2023年第2期115-122,共8页Journal of Silk

基　　金：国家自然科学基金项目(61902150)。

摘　　要：为改善常规凉感纤维吸水性差,无法有效吸收并排出汗液而造成皮肤黏附贴身的不适感,文章选用凉感聚乙烯纤维和改性涤纶,结合纬编双面组织结构,通过面料内外层的湿润梯度,达到织物单向导湿的效果,使亲肤面保持干爽,提高其接触凉感。文章设计5种组织结构,调整纤维原料、纱线配置等,开发系列纬编单导凉感双面多针道轻薄织物,并测试其相关性能,通过客观赋权法进行综合评价。结果表明:PE/PP皮芯结构复合纤维编织亲肤面的接触凉感较为优异,且当亲肤一侧形成凹凸状的单侧网眼时,可以有效减少面料与皮肤的贴附面积,显著提高单向导湿和接触凉感,同时满足织物轻薄的需求。With the improvement of people’s living standard and the integration of sports and health philosophy in daily life,people have higher and higher requirements on the comfort and function of textiles.In summer,people are willing to wear and contact items with low temperature.Cool fabrics can make the skin surface that touches the fabric feel the temperature difference at the moment of touch,resulting in a cool feeling of contact.What’s more,the global greenhouse effect is increasing year by year.In order to actively cope with climate change and reduce the use of refrigeration equipment,cool fabric has also become a hot spot in the development of energy-saving clothing.In addition to the need for cool feeling,people are more prone to sweat when doing sports in summer.The traditional high moisture-absorption fabric can absorb but cannot discharge sweat.As a result,the unidirectional water-transfer technology which can improve the thermal and wet comfort of clothing comes into being.This technology can transfer the sweat from the inside of the fabric to the outermost layer through the matching of hydrophilic yarns and hydrophobic yarns and the fabric structure design,so that it is not easy to penetrate along the original path.In this way,the the skin surface can maintain dry.This can improve the air permeability and water permeability of fabrics worn in summer,and help the human body dissipate heat quickly.The purpose of this paper is to develop a series of lightweight and cool fabrics with unidirectional water-transfer function.In order to overcome the discomfort of skin adhesion caused by poor water absorption of conventional cool fibers and the inability to effectively absorb and expel sweat,we selected the cool polyethylene(PE)and its composite fiber with skin-core structure(PE/PP)and modified polyester(including low-temperature cationic polyester and microfiber polyester)according to the principle of unidirectional water-transfer technology.The fabric can achieve the effect of unidirectional water-transfer pe

关 键 词：纬编双面结构 凹凸效应 单向导湿 接触凉感 聚乙烯 速干性 轻薄 

分 类 号：TS184.4[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]