弧形曲线外观纬弹经起花织物的研发  

Research and development of extra warp fabric with curved appearance by weft elasticity

作　　者：佟昀 TONG Yun(Jiangsu College of Engineering and Technology,Nantong,Jiangsu 226007,China)

机构地区：[1]江苏工程职业技术学院,江苏南通226007

出　　处：《毛纺科技》2023年第1期28-37,共10页Wool Textile Journal

基　　金：江苏先进纺织工程技术中心建设项目(苏政办发[2014]22号)。

摘　　要：为研究具有弧形画面感的纺织品,通过弹力纬浮长线的位置错落和疏密程度的不同改变纬向收缩力,经起花组织与弧形曲线结构配合,开发一款纵向呈弧形曲线外观的织物。试织中需避免纬向受力不均匀造成织物扭曲变形、卷边;弹力纬纱和普通纬纱的混织比例要适当,以防幅缩率过大;上机工艺要求采用的整经片纱张力均匀、浆纱增加毛羽被覆率,保证开口清晰;多臂剑杆织机双轴织造,加大边撑伸幅作用、调节开口时间和引纬张力避免断边和边纬缩。利用多臂织机开发的纵向弧形曲线外观织物具有流动感、韵律美,兼顾美观性和受力均衡性,结合经起花组织和渐变色纱排列,织物具有意境,实现艺术和工艺的融合,适合酒店布草和女装面料。In order to study the textile with arc-shaped picture sense,a fabric with the appearance of arc-shaped curve was developed through changing the weft shrinkage force by the position of the elastic weft float line and the density,as well as matching the flowery structure and arc-shaped curve structure.It is necessary to avoid distortion and crimping of fabric caused by uneven weft force during trial weaving.The mixing ratio of elastic weft and ordinary weft should be appropriate to prevent the large shrinkage rate.The weaving process requires the evenness of the warping yarn tension,the increase of the hairiness cover rate of the sizing yarn and the guarantee of clear opening;Multi-arm rapier loom is biaxial weaving,which can increase the stretching effect of side brace,adjust opening time and insertion tension to avoid breaking edge and shrinking edge weft.The longitudinal curved fabric developed by multi-arm loom has a sense of flow,beautiful rhythm,giving consideration to aesthetics and balanced force,combined with the warp floral organization and gradually changing yarn arrangement,the fabric has an artistic conception,to achieve the integration of art and technology,suitable for hotel supplies and women′s fabrics.

关 键 词：纬弹 弧形曲线 经起花 织造 织物设计 

分 类 号：TS105.3[轻工技术与工程—纺织工程]