基于男装制版法的休闲女西装结构设计  

Structure design of casual women suit based on men′s pattern-making method

作　　者：罗静 柴莉[2] LUO Jing;CHAI Li(School of Cultural Communication&Design,Zhejiang Unwersity of Finance&Economics Dongfang College,Haining,Zhejiang 314018,China;Department of Textile and Garment Technology,Ningxia Polytechnic,Yinchuan,Ningxia 750021,China)

机构地区：[1]浙江财经大学东方学院文化传播与设计学院,浙江海宁314018 [2]宁夏职业技术学院纺织与服装技术系,宁夏银川750021

出　　处：《毛纺科技》2023年第1期56-63,共8页Wool Textile Journal

摘　　要：为优化休闲女西装样板风格和提高制版效率,解决传统女西装制版法公式变量多,制版步骤较复杂的问题,以经典款三开身休闲女西装为例,通过男装结构设计方法探讨休闲女西装的结构影响因素。采用CLO3D试衣软件分析了基于男装制版法的休闲女西装前胸宽、后背宽、袖窿宽三者的配比关系,得出标准A体前胸宽调节数和后背宽调节数的最佳取值范围。以真人着装实验验证了休闲女西装采用男装制版法设计的可行性,并从制版效率和样板风格对比说明采用男装制版法进行休闲款女装结构设计的优势,为企业生产休闲款、大廓形款和中性化风格一类的女装提供良好的制版思路。In order to optimize the pattern style of casual women′s suits and improve the efficiency of pattern making,solve the problem that the traditional women′s suits pattern making method has many formula variables and complicated pattern making steps,the casual women′s suit was taken as an example in this paper to discuss the structural influence factors of the casual women′s suit through the structural design method of men′s suit.CLO3D fitting software was used to analyze the ratio relationship of front chest width,back width and armhole width in the structure of casual women′s suits,the optimal value range of chest width adjustment number and back width adjustment number was obtained.And a real person experiment was conducted to verify the feasibility of the pattern making method for casual women′s suits.The convenience and superiority of this method for the structural design of casual women′s clothing were verified by the comparison of men′s and women′s clothing pattern making method,which provides good pattern-making ideas for enterprises to produce casual women′s clothing and large profile women′s clothing style.

关 键 词：休闲女西装 结构设计 男装制版法 调节数 服装设计 

分 类 号：TS941.7[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]