全成形运动休闲外套的工艺设计与实现  

Process design and implementation of fully formed sports casual jacket

作　　者：梁鑫花 丛洪莲 吴光军 LIANG Xinhua;CONG Honglian;WU Guangjun(Engineering Research Center for Knitting Technology,Ministry of Education,Jiangnan University,Wuxi,Jiangsu 214122,China)

机构地区：[1]江南大学针织技术教育部工程研究中心,江苏无锡214122

出　　处：《毛纺科技》2023年第1期64-69,共6页Wool Textile Journal

基　　金：国家自然科学基金项目(61772238);中央高校基本科研业务费专项资金资助项目(JUSRP22026);江苏省研究生科研与实践创新计划项目(KYCX22_2345)。

摘　　要：为研究运动休闲外套的全成形工艺实现方法,在分析运动休闲服装特征的基础上,结合人体上身躯干特征点和服装特殊部位松量设计,建立了服装衣身、袖身及整体制版工艺。通过选用合适的纱线及组织结构,设定上机工艺参数,实现了全成形运动休闲外套的编织。结果表明:在服装肘部设计立体内凹外凸结构,可适应肘部活动;领口、袖口及大身下摆将1+1罗纹布面折叠缝合,可提高该部位的硬挺度;大身偏下左右两侧添加插袋、插袋拉链及门襟拉链,可增加服装的运动元素;服装内层设有夹层,可丰富运动休闲外套的功能性。文章为拓展全成形服装应用领域提供了参考。In order to study the realization method of the full forming process of sports casual garments,based on the analysis of the features of sports casual garments,combined with the feature points of the upper torso and the loose design of the special parts of the garment,the layout process of the garment body,sleeve body and whole garment were established.The knitting of a fully formed sports casual jacket was implemented by choosing suitable yarn and structures and setting machine process parameters.The results show that the three-dimensional protruding structure is designed on the elbow of the jacket to accommodate to the elbow movement.The 1+1 rib fabric of the neckline,cuffs and hem of the body is folded and stitched to improve the stiffness of the parts.Pockets,pocket zippers and placket zipper designs are added on the left and right sides of the bottom garment body to increase the sports elements of the garment.The inner layer of the garment is provided with a mezzanine to enrich its functionality.The research in this article provides a reference for expanding the application field of fully formed garments.

关 键 词：运动休闲外套 全成形 针织服装 制版工艺 编织工艺 

分 类 号：TS184.5[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]