化妆品中常用祛斑美白成分稳定性的研究进展  

Research Progress on Stability Study of Common Freckle Removing and Whitening Ingredients in Cosmetics

作　　者：顾宇翔[1] 周友娥 熊智 周耀斌[1] GU Yuxiang;ZHOU Youe;XIONG Zhi;ZHOU Yaobin(Shanghai Institute of Quality Inspection and Technical Research,Shanghai 200233,China;Shanghai Center for Medical Device and Cosmetics Evaluation and Inspection,Shanghai 200020,China;Amorepacific(Shanghai)R&I Center Co.,Ltd.,Shanghai 201801,China)

机构地区：[1]上海市质量监督检验技术研究院,上海200233 [2]上海市医疗器械化妆品审评核查中心,上海200020 [3]爱茉莉太平洋(上海)研发有限公司,上海201801

出　　处：《香料香精化妆品》2023年第1期127-132,137,共7页Flavour Fragrance Cosmetics

基　　金：国家标准化管理委员会国家标准项目(编号20203987-T-607)。

摘　　要：概述了中国台湾和韩国法规目录清单中的祛斑美白成分及其限量要求,介绍了中国《化妆品安全评估技术导则》、韩国《化妆品稳定性试验指导原则》和ISO/TR 18811《化妆品稳定性测试指南》中化妆品稳定性试验方法、考察的参数指标和注意事项。综述了熊果苷、甘草提取物、甲氧基水杨酸钾和鞣花酸溶液和它们配伍在模拟化妆品时的稳定性,结果表明这些成分的稳定性存在差异,而且它们与某些化妆品原料同时使用时稳定性不佳。目前化妆品美白成分稳定性报道缺乏,现有的研究周期基本在12周以下,这与化妆品2~3年的保质期相比差距很大。为确保祛斑美白化妆品在整个保质期内都有效,建设企业参考《消毒技术规范》或者化妆品新原料的稳定性加速试验的方法,进行功效成分的稳定性试验。The catalogue and limits of freckle removing and whitening ingredients in China Taiwan and Republic of Korea regulations were summarized. The stability test methods of cosmetics in China’s Technical Guidelines for Safety Assessment of Cosmetics, Republic of Korea’s Guidelines on Stability Testing of Cosmetic Products and ISO/TR 18811 Cosmetics.Guidelines on the Stability Testing of Cosmetic, as well as the parameters, indexes and precautions were presented. The stability research of arbutin, licorice extract, potassium methoxysalicylate and ellagic acid in solution and simulated cosmetics was also introduced. It was concluded that the stabilities of these ingredients were different, and they were not stable when used together with some cosmetic raw materials. At present, there were few reports on the stability of whitening ingredients in cosmetics, and the research duration was usually less than 12 weeks, which was a big gap compared with the 2-3 year shelf life of cosmetics. It was suggested that enterprises could refer to the accelerated stability test method of Technical Standard for Disinfection or new cosmetics raw materials to conduct the stability test of efficacy ingredients, in order to ensure the effectiveness of their freckle removing and whitening cosmetics throughout the shelf life.

关 键 词：化妆品 祛斑美白 成分 稳定性 

分 类 号：TQ658[化学工程—精细化工]