影响“大胸显小”类文胸穿着效果的结构设计要素  

Structure Design Factors Affecting the Wearing Effect of"Minimizer"Bras

作　　者：季晓芬 王逸伦 庞琛 翟丽娜 JI Xiaofen;WANG Yilun;PANG Chen;ZHAI Lina(China National Silk Museum,Hangzhou 310002,China;School of Fashion Design and Engineering,Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Hangzhou 310018,China;School of International Education,Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Hangzhou 310018,China)

机构地区：[1]中国丝绸博物馆,浙江杭州310002 [2]浙江理工大学服装学院,浙江杭州310018 [3]浙江理工大学国际教育学院,浙江杭州310018

出　　处：《服装学报》2023年第1期1-9,共9页Journal of Clothing Research

基　　金：国家社会科学基金艺术学项目(20BG134)。

摘　　要：利用逆向工程软件测量受试者穿着“大胸显小”类文胸时的18个胸部形态数据,并结合主观评价实验和20个文胸结构设计要素,分析乳房细部形态特征对视觉显小效果的影响,以及文胸结构设计要素对此类文胸塑形效果的影响。实验结果表明,乳深、内外胸的比例、外胸曲率和斜度等9个胸部形态特征能显著影响胸部的视觉大小;可以通过加宽侧片、加高鸡心、增加罩杯横向刚性等方式优化设计,有效提升“大胸显小”类文胸对胸部的塑形效果。研究结果可以帮助内衣制造商更好地了解文胸设计要素对其塑形效果的影响,以满足大胸女性这一特殊群体的穿着需求。This study used reverse engineering software to derive 18 breast-related measurements when subjects wearing the"minimizer"bra.Combined with a subjective evaluation experiment and 20 bra structure design elements,the influence of breast shape characteristics on the visual minimizing effect and the influence of bra structure design elements on the shaping effect were analyzed.The experimental results show that nine breast shape characteristics,such as breast depth,the ratio of inner and outer breast,curvature and slope of outer breast,can significantly affect the visual size of breasts.The shaping effect of"minimizer"bras can be optimized by designing with a wider side panel,higher gore and stronger transverse rigidity of the cup.The research results can help lingerie manufacturers better understand how the design features of bras can influence the shaping effect to meet the wearing needs of large breasts women.

关 键 词：胸部显小 文胸 结构设计 三维人体扫描 大胸 

分 类 号：TS941.17[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]