近代文明新装的研究现状及趋势  

Research Status and Trend of Modern Civilized New Clothes

作　　者：梁惠娥[1,2,3] 宋斯年 LIANG Hui'e;SONG Sinian(School of Design,Jiangnan University,Wuxi 214122,China;Intangible Cultural Heritage Research Base in Jiangsu Province,Jiangnan University,Wuxi 214122,China;School of Media and Arts,Wuxi University,Wuxi 214063,China)

机构地区：[1]江南大学设计学院,江苏无锡214122 [2]江南大学江苏省非物质文化遗产研究基地,江苏无锡214122 [3]无锡学院传媒与艺术学院,江苏无锡214063

出　　处：《服装学报》2023年第1期42-49,共8页Journal of Clothing Research

基　　金：国家社会科学基金艺术学项目(21BG142)。

摘　　要：文明新装作为近代女性代表服饰之一,是对传统服饰的继承与发展,也是对中外文化的融合与再生,对其梳理有利于完善近代服饰文化体系。运用文献调查法与综合分析法对文明新装进行概述,介绍目前国内外关于近代文明新装的相关研究成果,发现研究中的争议之处,并对未来研究趋势进行思考与展望,为研究近代服饰文化提供参考。研究认为:学界对近代文明新装的研究已小有成果,但对其流行时间、地点的界定,以及名称的发展、款式变化等方面仍需探讨;目前研究总体呈现出“多通论,少专项”“多照片,少实物”的现象。As one of the representative costume of modern female,civilized new clothes are not only the inheritance and development of traditional costume,but also the integration and regeneration of Chinese and foreign cultures.This paper used literature survey method and comprehensive analysis method to summarize the civilized new clothes,and introduced the current research results of modern civilized new clothes at home and abroad,found out the disputes in the research,thought and prospected the future research trend,so as to provide reference for the study of modern costume culture.The research shows that the academic circles have made some achievements in the study of modern civilized new clothes,but the definition of its popular time and place,appellation developments,style changes and other aspects still need to be discussed.The research generally presents the phenomenon of"more general theories,less special topics"and"more photos,less physical objects".

关 键 词：文明新装 学生装 袄裙 近代服饰 服饰文化 

分 类 号：TS941.12[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]