唐宋史籍中“缬”字意象探问  

Exploring the Imagery of the Chinese Character"Xie"in Tang to Song Historical Books

作　　者：郭佳霏 蒋玉秋 GUO Jiafei;JIANG Yuqiu(School of Fine Arts,Beijing Institute Of Fashion Technology,Beijing 100029,China)

机构地区：[1]北京服装学院美术学院,北京100029

出　　处：《服饰导刊》2023年第1期24-33,共10页Fashion Guide

基　　金：北京服装学院2022年教育质量提升项目“中国古代服装复原研究与实践课程探索”(NHFZ20220194);北京服装学院2022年研究生科研创新项目资助(NHFZ20220161)。

摘　　要：“缬”是中国古代印染工艺的统称。唐宋史籍中多载有“缬”字,其中部分可明显识别出为染缬工艺的缬名,但仍有些“缬”仅以单字出现,并未直接指向具体的染缬工艺。为了进一步了解染缬工艺及其所产生的影响,探讨这部分“缬”字所指意象与染缬工艺之间的关系。文章采用历史文献研究法,系统梳理了200余部唐、五代、宋相关的史籍文献,将其中一些不能明显识别出染缬工艺却含有“缬”字的语句,结合全文进行意象分析。研究表明:在染缬工艺兴盛的唐宋时期,“缬”字不仅用做名词概括印染工艺,还延申出“纹”“点”“朦胧”“晕”等意象用以描述景、物等,且这些意象与传统染缬中的绞缬工艺所得的纹样有一定的相似性。除此之外,在唐宋之后“缬”字更丰富的意象表达则体现了古人天人合一的造物理念,同时为当下传承创新染缬工艺提供了新的启发。"Xie"is a name for the ancient Chinese dyeing craft.“Xie”was recorded in the history books from Tang to Song dynasties and they mainly had three kinds,which are Jiaoxie,Laxie and Jiaxie.The principles of the three dyeing crafts are antidyeing,but each skill of the craft or the use of different tools or the pattern by the characteristics are also different.The Chinese character"Xie"recorded in the Tang and Song dynasties,partly can be clearly identified as the name of the dyeing process,but some"Xie"only with a single Chinese character,does not directly point to the specific meaning.To further understand the process of dyeing and its influence and the relationship between the intention of this part of the Chinese character"Xie"and the process of dyeing is explored.This paper systematically combs through more than 200 historical books from the Tang,Five Dynasties and Song dynasties and analyzes some of the phrases containing the Chinese character"Xie"that are not clearly identifiable in the dyeing process.The Chinese character"Xie"refers to both figurative contextual imagery and vague contextual imagery.(a)The figurative imagery mainly includes the texture of"strip"and the texture of"dot"in the Chinese character"Xie".The former describes objects such as lines,surfaces,water,ice,clouds,smoke,fields,etc.The common feature of these imageries is that they have a strong visual sense of lines,either thick or thin,deep or shallow,some of them are interlaced,forming a mesh,some of them are regularly arranged,forming lines;the latter describes objects such as dots,shattered,many flowers,spots,maple forests,etc.The common feature is that they have a strong visual sense of dotted,starry,dappled,mixed,and staggered imagery.(b)Vague imaginary images mainly include the"hazy"and"red halo"texture of the Chinese character"Xie"imagery."Hazy"texture,mainly refers to the edge of the pattern is not clear,blurred imagery,to"drunken eyes",that is,the performance of drunken people’s eyes squinted into a slit.The"red halo"texture is

关 键 词：唐宋时期 史籍文献 缬 意象 

分 类 号：TS194.9[轻工技术与工程—纺织化学与染整工程]