保健功能性内衣肚兜的变迁探析  

Analysis on the Change of Health Functional Underwear Bellyband

作　　者：代艳梅 刁习羽 郑迎春 尹志红 DAI Yanmei;DIAO Xiyu;ZHENG Yingchun;YIN Zhihong(School of Fashion Design,Wuhan Textile University,Wuhan 430073 China)

机构地区：[1]武汉纺织大学服装学院,武汉430073

出　　处：《服饰导刊》2023年第1期58-64,共7页Fashion Guide

基　　金：教育部人文社会科学研究规划项目(18YJA760073)。

摘　　要：古代肚兜不仅具有遮羞保暖功能,同样具备健康精神慰藉和医疗保健功能,文章对保健内衣的古今发展脉络进行了整理,传统肚兜的保健性能对现代新型保健内衣的研究具有深远的指导意义。文章主要采用文献整理、图文综述、以及服饰与中医药学相结合的跨学科等研究方法。从纵向和横向两个维度对其变迁展开分析:从古代肚兜的保健功能有关史料进行整理综述;对现代保健性内衣的种类、构成形式与内容进行了分析。研究发现:(1)古代的保健式肚兜起初是基于生存需求,表现为蔽体防护等功能;受纺织技术及意识形态的影响,其保健性具体表现为:将人的意识所想符号化,再通过某种特有的手法附于内衣上,以达到保健希冀;后出现药芯肚兜实现了真正的医疗保健的作用。(2)在纺织技术高度发展的背景下,分别有传统式保健肚兜与新型纺织品类保健肚兜,传统式的是在古代药芯肚兜的基础上优化,构成原理不变。而新型纺织品内衣脱离了直接放置药物的传统模式衣身载药,将药物的有效成分与纺织纤维一体化。Ancient bellyband not only has the function of covering shyness and keeping warm,but also has the function of healthy spiritual comfort and medical care.This paper sorts out the ancient and modern development of health care underwear.The health care performance of traditional bellyband has far-reaching guiding significance for the research of modern new health care underwear.The article mainly adopts literature collation,graphic review,and interdisciplinary research methods such as the combination of clothing and traditional Chinese medicine.This paper analyzes its changes from two dimensions:vertical and horizontal.It summarizes the historical materials related to the health care function of ancient belly cups,and discusses the health care function of ancient belly pockets in combination with the structural characteristics of ancient belly pockets.It demonstrates the role of survival needs and mental health comfort of ancient bellybands;the types,forms and contents of modern health underwear are analyzed,including traditional health bellyband and new textile underwear.The study found that:(1)the ancient health-care bellyband was initially based on survival needs,manifested as shielding protection and other functions;during the Ming and Qing Dynasties,with the progress of textile technology,the specific performance was to symbolize people’s consciousness and then attach it to underwear through some unique techniques to achieve health care hopes;after the emergence of medicine core bellyband to achieve a real role in health care.The traditional health bellyband contains the infinite wisdom of the ancients,and provides a rich reference case for modern health underwear.(2)Under the background of the high development of textile technology,there are traditional health care bellybands and new textile health care bellybands respectively.Modern medical care underwear inherits the creation idea of traditional drug-loaded bellybands.The traditional bellyband is optimized on the basis of ancient medicine core bellybands,a

关 键 词：内衣肚兜 保健 载药功能 新型功能纺织品 

分 类 号：TS941.12[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]