冲锋衣下摆抽绳调节对服装热阻的影响  

Influence of hem drawstring adjustment of outdoor jackets on the thermal insulation of garments

作　　者：黄婉蓉 王云仪[1,2,3] HUANG Wanrong;WANG Yunyi(College of Fashion and Design,Ministry of Education,Donghua University,Shanghai 200051,China;Protective Clothing Research Center,Ministry of Education,Donghua University,Shanghai 200051,China;Key Lab of Clothing Design&Technology,Ministry of Education,Donghua University,Shanghai 200051,China)

机构地区：[1]东华大学服装与艺术设计学院,上海200051 [2]东华大学功能防护服装研究中心,上海200051 [3]东华大学现代服装设计与技术教育部重点实验室,上海200051

出　　处：《丝绸》2023年第3期113-119,共7页Journal of Silk

基　　金：上海市科学技术委员会国际合作项目(21130750100);中央高校基本科研业务费专项资金资助项目(2232023G-08)。

摘　　要：为了研究服装下摆抽绳调节对其隔热性能的影响,文章以抽绳收紧水平和环境风速作为实验变量,选取五件抽绳位置、规格尺寸和面料硬挺度不同的冲锋衣作为研究对象,测量其服装热阻值。结果表明,抽绳位置设计、服装规格设计及面料硬挺度都会使得抽绳调节对服装隔热性能的影响呈现不同的变化,并非抽绳量越大服装热阻值越大。在抽绳收紧的过程中,下摆抽绳比腰部抽绳对服装隔热性能的影响更为复杂。规格尺寸大的服装抽绳收紧后隔热性能没有显著提高,而较柔软的面料相对较硬挺的面料更能促进服装隔热能力的提升。相对于无风环境,环境气流的上升对抽绳收紧后服装隔热性能的提升有更为明显的促进作用。In outdoor sports, both the change of environment and movement of human body will affect the heat production and dissipation from wearers. Changing the thermal insulation of a garment by adjusting its openings is an efficient method to maintain the thermal balance of the human body than donning or doffing the clothing. Although many studies have been carried out to investigate the influence of the apertures’ structure on the heat transfer through the clothing, most of them set the apertures totally open or totally closed, and the comprehensive influence of multiple factors has not been deeply discussed. This paper focuses on hem drawstring, the most common functional structure design in the apertures of outdoor jackets. The influence of hem drawstring tightening on the thermal insulation of clothing was examined through thermal manikin test, an objective evaluation. Meanwhile, the drawstring position, clothing tolerance, fabric stiffness, environmental wind speed were included in the testing protocol. The findings of this study were expected to provide consumers a clearer guide to dress and designers more specific design basis and guidance.For the experiment, we selected five single-layer jackets with high collar and hooded caps as the research objects, whose drawstring position, clothing specification and fabric stiffness were different. According to the different tightening amounts of clothes, three gradients of drawstring tightening levels were designed, namely, no tightening(0%), half tightening(50%), and full tightening(100%). We used Newton Thermal Manikin with 34 separate segments to do clothing thermal insulation measurement including the total thermal insulation and the local thermal insulation of upper chest, upper back, stomach, mid back, waist, lower back, abdomen, hip, up arm and forearm. The manikin was positioned in an air-conditioned chamber with(15±0.5) ℃,(50±5)% relative humidity and 0.4 m/s(no wind) or 2.8 m/s(windy) air flow according to ISO 15831(Clothing-Physiological Effects-Measureme

关 键 词：冲锋衣 抽绳调节 服装开口 热阻 衣下空间 三维扫描 

分 类 号：TS941.17[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]