中国古代提花织物组织结构的历史沿革和主要特征  

Historical evolution and main characteristics of the weave structure of jacquard fabrics in ancient China

作　　者：周赳[1] 彭稀 ZHOU Jiu;PENG Xi(Silk and Fashion Culture Research Center,Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Hangzhou 310018,China)

机构地区：[1]浙江理工大学浙江省丝绸与时尚文化研究中心,杭州310018

出　　处：《丝绸》2023年第3期120-131,共12页Journal of Silk

基　　金：中国工程院战略研究与咨询项目(2022-XY-19);国家社会科学基金艺术学项目(22BG121);文化与旅游部重点实验室资助项目(2017016)。

摘　　要：为了传承中国古代提花织物优秀技艺,并给现代提花织物的结构创新提供理论依据,文章通过梳理中国古代提花织物组织结构的历史沿革,分析提花织物各类型组织结构的特征和相互关系,根据其演变规律构建起中国古代提花织物的组织结构谱系。研究表明,中国古代提花织物的结构根据组织结构特征可分为五大类,即单层结构、重结构、双层结构及特种组织结构类的起绒结构和绞经结构,其中重结构包括暗夹型和非暗夹型两种。此外,各类型组织结构的形成和发展具有一定的客观规律和内在联系,总体上呈现出从简单向复杂、从单一向多元、从单层向多层发展的趋势,但也存在单层缎纹组织由重结构缎纹组织发展而来的从复杂向简单发展的特例。中国古代提花织物组织结构的演变与发展是各个历史时期提花技术进步的必然结果,也为现代提花织物的品种创新提供依据。The ancient Chinese jacquard fabric refers to the figured fabric produced by hand on traditional jacquard looms. It is the most complex woven fabric in terms of weaving technique, reflecting the perfect marriage of weaving art and weaving technology. The inheritance of its exquisite techniques is the basis of variety innovation in modern jacquard fabrics, and innovation in the weave structure is crucial to the variety innovation. Currently, domestic and overseas research focuses on the weave structure of ancient Chinese jacquard fabrics in certain historical periods or of specific varieties. However, the evolution of the weave structure of jacquard fabrics during various historical periods has been largely neglected and not investigated.To inherit the excellent weaving technique of the ancient Chinese jacquard fabric, this paper adopts the research methods of historical research, technical analysis and summary of literature and material objects to sort out the historical evolution and analyze the characteristics and interrelationships of various types of weave structures. On this basis, the evolution law of the weave structure of ancient Chinese jacquard fabrics is summarized and the weave structure system is built. The research indicates that the weave structures of ancient Chinese jacquard fabrics are divided into five main types according to their characteristics, i. e. three general weave structures, including single-layer structure, backed weave structure, and double-layer structure, and two special weave structures, including velvet structure and twisted warp structure. The backed weave structure is divided into yarn-wadded structure and non-yarn-wadded structure. In addition, the weave structure of ancient Chinese jacquard fabrics is related to the development of jacquard technology and has the following evolution laws.(i) The general weave structure shows a development trend from simplicity to complexity, from single layer to multi-layer, and from singleness to diversification. However, there are some spe

关 键 词：古代 提花织物 组织结构 品种 演变 丝绸 

分 类 号：TS145.3[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]