中国古代“半臂”服装款式溯源  

The origin of Chinese ancient half-sleeved shirts

作　　者：韩楚彤 贺阳 HAN Chutong;HE Yang(Academy of Fine Arts,Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology,Beijing 100029,China;Ethnic Costume Museum,Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology,Beijing 100029,China)

机构地区：[1]北京服装学院美术学院,北京100029 [2]北京服装学院民族服饰博物馆,北京100029

出　　处：《丝绸》2023年第3期132-139,共8页Journal of Silk

基　　金：国家社会科学基金艺术学重大项目(18ZD20);教育部服务国家特殊需求博士人才培养项目(NHFZ20190111)。

摘　　要：中国古代“半臂”这种服装款式第一次在古文献中被提及的事件是发生在新莽时期,其所记载的事件中将士们所穿着的叫做“绣镼”的服装即是“半臂”。在当时这种款式被视为“服妖”,究其原因是其款式源自外来文化。胡服中的“贯头衫”是中国古代“半臂”服装款式的雏形,在中原汉地周边国家与民族服饰文化中处在主流的地位。“贯头衫”款式因战争中强迫式的文化灌输及国家间政治上的往来等原因得以传播。再加之汉代发达的交通、便利的出行工具,致使该款式流入中原并在中原地区得以发展,最终形成“半臂”款式。As for the clothing style of half-sleeved shirts in ancient China, the characteristic of “half sleeves” is contrary to that of “wide clothes and wide sleeves” in the traditional clothing of the Han Dynasty in Central China. It was in the Xinmang Period that the half-sleeved shirt in ancient China was first mentioned in ancient literature. The clothing worn by the soldiers in the events recorded in the literature was called Xiu Jie, a half-sleeved shirt. At that time, this style was regarded as Fu Yao. Therefore, the conjecture is put forward: this style is not the product of the Central China culture, but Hu clothing. Half-sleeved shirts appeared in the Central China costume culture in the Han Dynasty and became widely popular in the Tang Dynasty. Since then, it has always existed in the traditional Chinese costume culture. Therefore, the demonstration process and conclusion of this article on the conjecture that the half-sleeved shirt is “Hu clothing” are very valuable for the supplement and research of ancient Chinese costume history.Two important conclusions are drawn by referring to ancient Chinese literature and relative image materials:(i) based on the clothing of the figures in Dao Yin Picture of the Han Dynasty Tomb of Mawangdui, the clothing of the Han Dynasty terracotta figurine and the figures of murals, the half-sleeved shirt is worn by both men and women. And then we consider the four kinds of situations regarded as Fu Yao in the Han Dynasty, and find the reason of Xiu Jie being regarded as Fu Yao is not only because of abnormal behavior of soldiers “dressing women’s clothes” mentioned in the literature, but also because the proportion effect of half-sleeved clothing style is contrary to the theory of “Yin and Yang and the five elements”. Thus, this style is not the product of the Central China local culture. In addition, according to the literature records, the clothing and living habits that match half-sleeved shirts are all from foreign culture, so it is concluded that the ha

关 键 词：半臂 服妖 胡服 贯头衫 汉代 溯源 

分 类 号：TS941.19[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程] K892.23[历史地理—民俗学]