丝毛混纺织物一浴法同色染色工艺  

One-bath Homochromatism Dyeing Process of Silk/Wool Blended Fabric

作　　者：李梦恬 郭建生[1] 王荣 俞金林 LI Meng-tian;GUO Jian-sheng;WANG Rong;YU Jin-lin(College of Textiles,Donghua University,Shanghai 201620;Jiangsu Danmao Textile Co.,Ltd.,Zhenjiang 212351)

机构地区：[1]东华大学纺织学院,上海201620 [2]江苏丹毛纺织股份有限公司,江苏丹阳212300

出　　处：《纺织科学与工程学报》2023年第1期33-38,共6页Journal of Textile Science & Engineering

摘　　要：为实现丝毛混纺织物的一浴法同色染色,通过对毛纱和蚕丝的分浴及同浴染色实验,分析了温度对两种纱线染料上染情况的影响,发现在染色温度为85℃时,两种纱线同浴染色的同色性可以达到较好的水平。在此染色温度下,研究了一浴法常规染色工艺中pH值、元明粉质量浓度和保温时间对混纺织物同色性和染料上染率的影响。探索出可进一步提高织物同色性的一浴法低温延长染色工艺,并通过正交试验进行了工艺优化。最佳工艺参数为:染浴pH=5、酸性染料B 4%(o.w.f.)、匀染剂S 0.5 g/L、渗透剂F 0.5 g/L、元明粉50 g/L、40℃保温40 min、85℃保温20 min。In order to achieve one-bath homochromatism dyeing of silk/wool blended fabric,the influence of temperature on the dye uptake of two kinds of yarn dyes was analyzed through the separate-bath and same-bath dyeing experiments of wool yarn and silk.It was found that the homochromatism of the two kinds of yarns in one-bath dyeing could reach a better level when the dyeing temperature was 85℃.At this dyeing temperature,the effects of pH value,sodium sulfate concentration and holding time on the homochromatism and dye uptake of blended fabric were investigated through one-bath conventional dyeing process.The one-bath low-temperature-extended dyeing process,which could further improve the fabric homochromatism,was explored and optimized through orthogonal test.The optimal process parameters were pH=5,acid dye B 4%(o.w.f.),leveler S 0.5 g/L,penetrant F 0.5 g/L,sodium sulfate 50 g/L,40 min at 40℃and 20 min at 85℃.

关 键 词：丝毛混纺织物 酸性染料 一浴法染色 同色性 

分 类 号：TS193[轻工技术与工程—纺织化学与染整工程]