适应原植物在皮肤健康领域研究现状及展望  

Research status and prospect of adaptogenic plants in skin health

作　　者：刘小幸 陈春宇 李丽[1,2,3] 易帆 Xiaoxing Liu;Chunyu Chen;Li Li;Fan Yi(Key Laboratory of Cosmetic,China National Light Industry,Beijing Technology and Business University,Beijing 100048,China;Institute of Cosmetic Regulatory Science,Beijing Technology and Business University,Beijing 100048,China;Beijing Key Laboratory of Plant Research and Development,Beijing Technology and Business University,Beijing 100048,China)

机构地区：[1]北京工商大学中国轻工业化妆品重点实验室,北京100048 [2]北京工商大学化妆品监管科学研究院,北京100048 [3]北京工商大学北京市植物资源研究开发重点实验室,北京100048

出　　处：《日用化学工业（中英文）》2023年第3期325-332,共8页China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics

基　　金：北京市教委一般科技项目(KM202010011009);北京市优秀人才培养资助青年骨干个人项目(2018000020124G032)。

摘　　要：适应原植物是一类能非特异性地增强人体抵抗力的药用植物。目前对其内服起效研究较完善,但在皮肤外用上的作用功效及机制相关研究仍较少。本文基于文献计量学及专利分析,发现适应原植物作用于皮肤的功效聚焦于延缓衰老方面。并综合文献分析进一步推测其共性机理可能为直接作用于皮肤中促肾上腺皮质激素释放激素(CRH)参与的类中枢下丘脑-垂体-肾上腺轴(HPA轴);或是直接作用于皮肤细胞中激活抗氧化防御系统,抑制氧化应激造成的细胞损伤。本研究能为适应原植物在皮肤健康领域中的应用提供理论基础。Adaptogenic plants are a class of medicinal plants that can non-specifically enhance human resistance,act in multiple ways and with multiple targets,and affect the neuro-endocrine-immune system.The species resources of adaptive plants are abundant.At present,there are relatively complete researches on the effect of its oral administration on the human body,but there are few studies providing its external useon the skin.Based on bibliometrics,patent analysis and mechanisms of efficacy of adaptogenic plants in cosmetic applications,this paper finds out that the effect of adaptogenic plants on the skin are mainly focusing on anti-aging.It is further speculated that the common mechanism may be the direct action on the skin,affecting the central HPA-like axis involved in CRH in the skin;or it can directly act on the antioxidant defense system in skin cells and inhibit cell damage caused by oxidative stress.This study can provide a theoretical basis for the application of adaptogenic plants in the field of skin health.And getting fully use of the wide variety of high-value adaptogenic plant resources is also conducive to the better development of the cosmetic industry in China.

关 键 词：适应原植物 皮肤健康 抗衰老 文献计量学 

分 类 号：TQ658[化学工程—精细化工]