经纬双向半弹衬衫面料的设计与织造工艺  

Design and weaving technology of warp and weft bi-directional semi-elastic shirt fabric

作　　者：陈征兵 陶雅芸 曹秀明[2] 王清清[3] CHEN Zhengbing;TAO Yayun;CAO Xiuming;WANG Qingqing(Shanghai Quality Supervision Station,the Military Energy Quality Supervision General Station of the CMC Logistics Support Department,Nanjing,Jiangsu 210016,China;Jiangsu Sunshine Co.,Ltd.,Jiangyin,Jiangsu 214426,China;Key Laboratory of Eco-Textiles(Jiangnan University),Ministry of Education,Wuxi,Jiangsu 214122,China)

机构地区：[1]联勤保障部队军需能源质量监督总站上海质量监督站,江苏南京210016 [2]江苏阳光股份有限公司,江苏江阴214426 [3]生态纺织教育部重点实验室(江南大学),江苏无锡214122

出　　处：《毛纺科技》2023年第2期1-6,共6页Wool Textile Journal

摘　　要：针对普通机织面料弹性不足,易导致手感板结、抗皱性差、不易护理等问题,在经纬向均采用氨纶包覆丝和Lyocell/棉集聚纺纱线以3∶3间隔排列进行交织,设计并织造了一款2上1下右斜纹经纬双向半弹织物。阐述了整经及并轴工序中弹力纱线的张力控制,在整经中将其拉至最大伸长,经浆纱稳定伸长后再与非弹力经纱卷绕至织轴;总结了浆纱、浆丝、穿结经、织造以及后整理的关键工艺。最终开发的弹力交织物兼具长丝与短纤纱的特点,风格新颖独特,经纬向弹力分别为15.9%和22.7%,布面柔软丰满、硬挺度适中,适合制作春秋季高档男女式衬衫。The ordinary woven fabrics can easily lead to the problem of hand stiffness,poor wrinkle resistance and difficult to care.In this work,a 2/1 right twill warp and weft weft bi-directional semi-elastic fabric was designed and woven by interweaving spandex covered yarn and Lyocell/cotton compact spinning yarn which were arranged at 3∶3 intervals in both warp and weft directions.The tension control of elastic yarns in warping and shafting process was described.The elastic warp yarns was pulled to the maximum elongation in warping process to achieve stable after sizing,and then be wound with non-elastic warp to the weaving shaft to complete warp threading.The key techniques of sizing,pulping,threading,weaving and finishing were summarized.The elastic interlace finally developed has the characteristics both filament and staple yarn,with a novel and unique style.The elastic force of warp and weft is 15.9%and 22.7%respectively.The cloth surface is soft and plump with moderate stiffness,which is suitable for the production of high-grade men′s and women′s shirts in spring and autumn.

关 键 词：氨纶包覆丝 经纬双向半弹织物 产品设计开发 织造工艺 衬衫面料 

分 类 号：TS105.4[轻工技术与工程—纺织工程]