基于平面制图的波浪褶造型量化方法  

Quantitative method of wave pleat modelings based on pattern drafting

作　　者：颜文婷 李健[1] YAN Wenting;LI Jian(College of Fashion Art and Engineering,Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology,Beijing 100029,China)

机构地区：[1]北京服装学院服装艺术与工程学院,北京100029

出　　处：《毛纺科技》2023年第2期56-63,共8页Wool Textile Journal

基　　金：北京市教委项目(KM201910012012)。

摘　　要：为提升波浪褶造型效果与生产效率,探寻更适合应用于服装数字化技术的平面造型方法。选择圆环形和螺线形作为波浪褶的造型基础,分别进行层叠波浪和延展波浪结构实验,对其造型构成特点和平面造型方法进行分析和量化,并随机选择波浪造型进行反向验证。结果表明:以圆环形和螺线形为基础的波浪褶造型存在的规律性特征可以通过数学公式进行量化,可通过改变基础平面图形的内部结构解决波浪褶造型中量与形的问题。在公式辅助下用平面法进行波浪褶的造型设计更便捷和可控,为波浪结构造型方法提供新的思路与参考。在服装行业的转型升级中,波浪褶造型的量化公式可应用于服装数字化设计中,以推动服装虚拟与现实技术的发展。In order to improve the modeling quality and production efficiency of wave pleats,and to explore the method of pattern drafting which is more suitable for clothing digital technology.Circular and spiral shapes were selected as the modeling basis of wave pleats,and the layered wave and extended wave structure experiments were carried out respectively.The modeling characteristics and pattern drafting methods were analyzed and quantified,and the wave modeling was randomly selected for reverse verification.The results show that the regular traits of the wave pleat patterns based on circular ring and spiral shapes can be quantified by mathematical formulas,and the problems of volume and shape in wave pleat modeling can be solved by changing the inside structures of the base shapes.It is more convenient and controllable to use plane method to design wave pleats with the aid of formula,which provides a new idea and reference for wave structure modeling method.In the transformation and upgrading of the clothing industry,the quantitative formula of wave pleated modeling can be applied to the digital design of clothing,so as to promote the development of virtual and realistic technology of clothing.

关 键 词：波浪褶结构 平面制图 造型量化 服装数字化 

分 类 号：TS941.61[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]