民间一片式交领短衫的裁剪技术与结构变化分析  

Analysis on cutting technique and structural change of folk one-piece blouse with overlapping collars

作　　者：侯倩 HOU Qian(College of Arts,Shangqiu Polytechnic,Shangqiu,Henan 476000,China)

机构地区：[1]商丘职业技术学院艺术学院,河南商丘476000

出　　处：《毛纺科技》2023年第2期64-70,共7页Wool Textile Journal

基　　金：河南省高校人文社会科学研究一般项目(2022-ZDJH-00449);河南省哲学社会科学规划课题(2021BYS036)。

摘　　要：民间一片式交领短衫的裁剪技术及整体结构处理巧妙且简便,但缺乏理论和技术的系统分析,不利于人们学习与借鉴,针对这一问题,采用民间访谈调研和对比分析的方法,总结了民间一片式交领短衫的裁剪方法,分析了其技术特征,梳理了其以“十字型”结构裁剪为基础的变通原理,探究了该技术与现代服装结构之间的关系,并在此基础上提出了更直观灵活的4层裁剪结构变化方法,有助于民间一片式交领短衫裁剪技术的灵活应用与传承,同时对相关民间裁剪技艺的传承与创新具有一定的借鉴意义。The cutting technology and overall structure of folk one-piece blouse with overlapping collars is ingenious and simple,but the lack of systematic analysis of technical theories is not conducive to learning and reference.In view of this problem,the private interview research and comparative analysis methods were adopted to summarize the cutting method of folk one-piece blouse with overlapping collars,and its technical characteristics were analyzed.At the same time,the flexible principle based on"cross-type"structure cutting was clarified,and the relationship between this technology and the modern clothing structure was explored.Finally,a more intuitive and flexible four-layer clipping structural change method was proposed.The results of this paper were helpful for the flexible application and inheritance of the cutting technology for folk one-piece blouse with overlapping collars.At the same time,it has certain significance for the inheritance and innovation of related folk cutting technology.

关 键 词：一片式 交领短衫 裁剪技术 服装结构 

分 类 号：TS941[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]