影射法配领技术在多种特殊翻折线领型中应用  

The Application of Projection Collar Technology in Various Special Folding Collar Types

作　　者：伍超泉[1] WU Chao-quan(School of Fashion,Zhejiang Fashion Institute of Technology,Ningbo,Zhejiang 315211,China)

机构地区：[1]浙江纺织服装职业技术学院时装学院,浙江宁波315211

出　　处：《浙江纺织服装职业技术学院学报》2023年第1期49-52,81,共5页Journal of Zhejiang Fashion Institute of Technology

摘　　要：在服装样板制作过程中,配置翻驳领是一项重要技术点,选用不同配置方法将直接影响到配领难易及领子服帖程度。本文以特殊翻折线领型为研究对象,介绍一种影射配领方法,通过具体实例,重点论述该方法在多种特殊翻折线领型中的具体应用。经验证该配置方法直观明了,科学有效,实用性强,可以很好适应不同肩斜、不同高低翻折点、不同形式翻折线等因素变化。既避免了公式法计算繁琐,又容易把握领子造型,而且准确度高。In the process of garment pattern making,the configuration of flapping collar is an important technical point,and the selection of difierent configuration methods will directly affect the difficulty of collar matching and the degree of collar fitting.With the special folding collar types as the research objects,this paper introduces a collar matching method based on projection,and focuses on the application of this method in many special folding collar types through specific examples・It can be found that the configuration method is intuitive,scientific and efiective,and very practical.It can well adapt to different shoulder angle,dififerent high and low folding points,difierent forms of folding line and other factors.This method not only avoids complicated formula calculation,but also is easy to grasp the collar shape with high accuracy.

关 键 词：对称 翻驳领 翻折线 影射法 挖领脚 

分 类 号：TS941.63[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]