两只裤管——胫衣考辨  

Two Trouser Legs——The Interpretation and Research of Jing Yi

作　　者：闪雅洁 贺阳[1] Shan Yajie;He Yang

机构地区：[1]北京服装学院

出　　处：《艺术设计研究》2023年第1期48-54,共7页Art & Design Research

基　　金：教育部服务国家特殊需求博士人才培养项目“中国传统服饰文化抢救传承与设计创新人才培养”(项目编号:NHFZ20220006)的阶段性成果。

摘　　要：胫衣作为下体之衣,形制结构特殊且具有重要功能。本文从身体语义的角度出发,对“胫”所指代的身体义位进行讨论,提出胫衣有广义与狭义之分的观点,并结合图像、出土实物,阐述了胫衣两只裤管的形制变化及从“内”至“外”的发展过程。通过对比与之形制相似的邪幅、钓墪,笔者分析出三者的异同,从而认为后世将邪幅一类归为胫衣之属,源于汉时邪幅已无复其制,而钓墪连袜的式样则来源于草原游牧民族。As an important part of underwear,Jing Yi has a special shape and important function.From the perspective of body semantics,this paper discusses the meaning of the body referred to by"shank".It is believed that Jing Yi has a broad and a narrow sense.Combined with images and unearthed objects,it expounds the shape changes of Jing Yi in the narrow sense,and the development process from"inside"to"outside".By comparing the similar shapes of the Xie Fu and Diao Dun,the similarities and differences of the three are analyzed,and it is believed that the later generations classified Xie Fu as Jing Yi,which originated from the fact that there was no copying of Xie Fu in the Han Dynasty.The style of Diao Dun for pantyhose comes from the nomads of the grasslands.

关 键 词：胫衣 裤管 邪幅 钓墪 

分 类 号：J523[艺术—艺术设计] J18