经编纵条衬衫织物折皱回复各向异性及其表征  

Wrinkle recovery anisotropy and characterization of warp-knitted longitudinal-stripe shirt fabrics

作　　者：冉琪 蒋高明[1] 李炳贤 RAN Qi;JIANG Gaoming;LI Bingxian(Engineering Research Center for Knitting Technology,Ministry of Education,Jiangnan University,Wuxi,Jiangsu 214122,China)

机构地区：[1]江南大学教育部针织技术工程研究中心,江苏无锡214122

出　　处：《毛纺科技》2023年第3期1-7,共7页Wool Textile Journal

基　　金：国家自然科学基金项目(61902150);泰山产业领军人才项目(TSCY20180224)。

摘　　要：为研究经编纵条衬衫织物折皱回复的各向异性并合理表征其折皱回复性,运用SDL-M003A折皱回复角试验机测量经编纵条衬衫织物在不同取向角下的折皱回复角。为了提高织物的利用率和测量效率,首先对标准规定的测量方法进行适当改进;然后分析织物在不同取向角下折皱回复性的变化规律;最后采用相关分析法分析织物正反面各个取向角下折皱回复角的均值与取向角为0°和90°下折皱回复角均值之间的相关性。研究结果表明:经编纵条衬衫织物取向角不同,折皱回复性也不同;同一取向角下织物正反面折皱回复性也存在差异;在织物正面,取向角由0°到165°的变化过程中,折皱回复角先增大后减小;可以用正反面取向角0°和90°下折皱回复角的均值表征经编纵条衬衫织物的折皱回复性。In order to study the wrinkle recovery anisotropy of warp-knitted longitudinal-stripe shirt fabrics and to characterize its wrinkle recovery reasonably,the SDL-M003A wrinkle recovery angle tester was used to measure the wrinkle recovery angles of warp-knitted longitudinal-stripe shirt fabrics at different orientation angles.First,in order to improve the utilization rate and measurement efficiency of the fabric,the measurement method specified in the standard was appropriately improved;then the variation law of the wrinkle recovery of the fabric under different orientation angles was analyzed;finally,the correlation analysis method was used to analyze the correlation between the mean value of the wrinkle recovery angle at each orientation angle on the front and back of the fabric and the mean value of the wrinkle recovery angle when the orientation angle was 0°and 90°.The research results show that different orientation angles of warp-knitted longitudinal-strip shirt fabrics have different wrinkle recoveries;under the same orientation angle,there are also differences in wrinkle recoveries on the front and back sides of the fabrics.On the front side of the fabric,the wrinkle recovery angle first increases and then decreases during the change of orientation angle from 0°to 165°.The wrinkle recovery of warp-knitted longitudinal-strip shirt fabrics can be characterized by the mean value of the wrinkle recovery angles of 0°and 90°on the front and back orientation angles.

关 键 词：经编纵条衬衫织物 折皱回复性 各向异性 回复角 

分 类 号：TS187[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]