水墨效果羊毛织物的开发  

Development of wool fabric with ink-painting effect

作　　者：陶海燕[1] 侯莉敏[1] 温欣婷 TAO Haiyan;HOU Limin;WEN Xinting(Jiangsu Sunshine Group Co.,Ltd.,Jiangyin,Jiangsu 214426,China)

机构地区：[1]江苏阳光集团有限公司,江苏江阴214426

出　　处：《毛纺科技》2023年第3期34-39,共6页Wool Textile Journal

摘　　要：针对羊毛织物实现水墨效果的工艺进行了深入研究和有效尝试,充分探究水墨画的特征与羊毛织物的特点以及可能的表达方式。水墨效果主要通过纱线原料的粗细、颜色和组织结构变化的有机结合来实现,重点研究分析了织物所用的材质、纺纱工艺、织造工艺、织纹组织、后整理工艺。设计织物组织时,兼顾颜色和肌理效果,经纱选用黑白长丝,纬纱选用黑、灰、白3种颜色毛纱,利用纬三重组织、提花织造、拉绒工艺,开发出了水墨效果羊毛织物,拓展了精纺羊毛织物产品的开发思路。An in-depth study and effective attempt on the process of realizing the ink painting effect of wool fabric was made and the characteristics of ink-painting and wool fabric as well as the possible expression ways were fully explored.The effect of ink-painting was mainly realized through the combination of yarn raw materials,yarn count,color and woven fabric structure.Therefore,the research and analysis were focused on fabric material,spinning technology,weaving process,woven fabric structure and finishing process.In the design of fabric structure,both color and texture effects were taken into account.Black and white filament yarn was selected for warp yarn,and black,gray and white wool yarn was selected for weft yarn.The wool fabric with ink-painting effect was developed by using the technology of triple weft organization,jacquard weaving and napping,which expanded the development idea of worsted wool fabric products.

关 键 词：水墨效果 羊毛织物 提花织造 纬三重组织 

分 类 号：TS136[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]