羊毛衫仿牛仔成衣件染实践  

Garment dyeing practice of woolen sweater imitating denim

作　　者：周忠喜 姚春婵 张劲峰 程谊 杨毅 丁仁金 任洁 ZHOU Zhongxi;YAO Chunchan;ZHANG Jinfeng;CHENG Yi;YANG Yi;DING Renjin;REN Jie(Shaoxing Xiangu Textile Co.Ltd.,Shaoxing 312030,China;Shaoxing Keqiao West-Tex Textile Industry Innovative Institute,Shaoxing 312030,China;Shaoxing Fuheng Textile Technology Co.Ltd.,Shaoxing 312030,China;High Fashion(China)Co.Ltd.,Hangzhou 311200,China;Pringting&Dyeing Branch,Zhejiang Hangmin Co.Ltd.,Hangzhou 311241,China;Zhejiang Zhibihua Fashion Design Co.Ltd.,Shaoxing 312030,China)

机构地区：[1]绍兴纤谷纺织品有限公司,浙江绍兴312030 [2]绍兴市柯桥区西纺纺织产业创新研究院,浙江绍兴312030 [3]绍兴孚亨纺织科技有限公司,浙江绍兴312030 [4]达利(中国)有限公司,浙江杭州311200 [5]浙江航民股份有限公司印染分公司,浙江萧山311241 [6]浙江纸笔画服饰设计有限公司,浙江绍兴312030

出　　处：《染整技术》2023年第3期29-33,共5页Textile Dyeing and Finishing Journal

摘　　要：采用活性染料通过成衣件染得到仿牛仔的丝光防缩羊毛衫。最佳工艺是:雅格素藏青BF-RRN 2.0%(omf)、雅格素黄BF-3R 150%0.1%(omf)、雅格素红BF-3B 150%gran 0.3%(omf),用甲酸调pH为2.5,低温助剂ST2201.6%(omf),染色保温温度为85℃,保温时间为20 min,随后用氨水清洗5 min,带液率60%,反衫烘干。羊毛衫正反两面表观同色性K值为0.705(小于1.000),说明正反色差较大,且正面颜色比反面浅,羊毛衫有仿旧效果。仿旧处理后,正面各项色牢度均优于反面;虽然面料正面的起毛起球性能比反面低了0.5级,但整个正面起毛均匀,手感蓬松柔软。A denim-like mercerized preshrunk sweater is obtained by garment dyeing with reactive dyes.The optimal process is as follows:Argazol~? Navy BF-RRN 2.0%(omf),Argazol~? Yellow BF-3R 150% 0.1%(omf),Argazol~? Red BF-3B 150% gran 0.3%(omf),adjust pH to 2.5 with formic acid,low temperature assistant ST220 1.6%(omf),dyeing temperature 85 ℃,dyeing time 20 min.Then the garment is washed with ammonia water for 5 min,the liquid carrying rate is60%,and the garment is dried by reverse side.The apparent isochromatic K value of the wool sweater front side and back side is 0.705,which is less than 1.000,indicating a large color difference between the front and back.The color of the front side is lighter than that of the back side,indicating that the wool sweater has an imitation vintage effect.The colorfastness of the front side is better than that of the back side after the imitation treatment.Although the fuzzing and pilling performance of the front side of the fabric is 0.5 grade lower than that of the back side,the whole front side has even fuzzing and soft feel.

关 键 词：羊毛衫 仿旧染色 活性染料 丝光羊毛 桨翼式染缸 

分 类 号：TS193.5[轻工技术与工程—纺织化学与染整工程]