“去武图存唐社稷,安刘复睹汉衣冠”--从清代《万国来朝图》中安南国使臣着明制常服谈起  

“Plan for the Survival and Security of the Country,Looking Forward to Reproducing the Glorious Scene of Wearing Han-style Clothing”--Annam Diplomats Wearing the Daily Official Uniform of Ming Dynasty is Depicted in the“Portraits of Many Countries Coming to Diplomacy”in Qing Dynasty

作　　者：赵宇 刘瑜 Zhao Yu;Liu Yu

机构地区：[1]东华大学服装与艺术设计学院

出　　处：《海洋史研究》2023年第1期49-67,共19页Studies of Maritime History

基　　金：国家社会科学基金重大招标项目“丝绸之路中外艺术交流图志”(项目号:16ZDA173)阶段性成果。

摘　　要：清乾隆四十三年(1778)绘本《万国来朝图》(图1),现藏于故宫博物院,画体为绢本设色,无款印,存有多个版本,本文选取编号故六二七三,纵299厘米,横207厘米。①此图以写实的绘画手法展现了盛清时期庆祝元旦的盛大场面,画中描绘了包括乾隆皇帝在内的百余人,其中诸国朝觐使团声势浩荡,手捧方物,身穿别具特色的本国服饰,使太和门前成为“绮丽襕衫”汇聚之地。从图像的视觉呈现来看,安南国使臣着明制常服,在使团人群中格外醒目,这种服饰样貌完全有别于清制补服规制,为观者提供了一种“时空穿越”之感。对于封建等级制度极为严苛并拥有一套规章繁杂且精细的清朝而言,前代服饰的使用在本朝民众中是被明令禁止的,安南国的这一举动似乎挑战了清代的舆服制度,面对此举,乾隆帝的态度如何:“震怒”还是“视而不见”?Changfu is a part of the Ming Dynasty officials dress system,with the promulgation of the maritime prohibition policy in the early Ming Dynasty,and gradually spread to the entire East Asian cultural circle through official channels under the background of tributary system.In the“Portraits of many countries coming to diplomacy”,it shows its use as a formal official dress in diplomatic occasions under the rule of the Qing Dynasty.This paper takes Annam oficials wear the Ming Dynasty Changfu as the breakthrough point,from the Wusha hat,Buzi,color and other clothing information elaborated,and in combination with related literature and material evidence,to further explore the reason and purpose of Annam's use of Ming Dynasty Changfu in the mid to late eighteenth century from the perspective of maritime history and the Qing government's response.The research shows that the image of Annam official Changfu mainly comes from the early Ming Dynasty style,Since the Qing Dynasty entered the Central Plains,Annam,which had been a vassal of Ming Dynasty,regarded the clothes as the old Man customs,and always respected the Han culture themselves,emphasizing its continuity with the Han nationality in the central Plains.The continued use of Ming Dynasty Changfu is a concentrated reflection of the spread of Han customs and cultural identity.

关 键 词：封建等级制度 安南国 绢本设色 万国来朝 时空穿越 乾隆皇帝 乾隆帝 视觉呈现 

分 类 号：K248[历史地理—历史学] J212[历史地理—中国史] TS941.12[艺术—美术]