牛仔布用多芯包芯纱强伸性能研究  

Study on tensile property of multi⁃core spun yarn for denim

作　　者：张海焕 张毅 童胜昊 刘柳[1] 杨熠斌 ZHANG Haihuan;ZHANG Yi;TONG Shenghao;LIU Liu;YANG Yibin(Donghua University,Shanghai,201620,China;Zhejiang Changshan Textile Co.,Ltd.,Quzhou,324200,China;Zhejiang Jinsuo Textile Co.,Ltd.,Jinhua,321100,China;Bros Eastern Co.,Ltd.,Ningbo,315200,China)

机构地区：[1]东华大学,上海201620 [2]浙江省常山纺织有限责任公司,浙江衢州324200 [3]浙江金梭纺织有限公司,浙江金华321100 [4]百隆东方股份有限公司,浙江宁波315200

出　　处：《棉纺织技术》2023年第4期53-56,共4页Cotton Textile Technology

基　　金：中央高校基本科研业务费专项资金资助(2232023G-06)。

摘　　要：探讨双芯和三芯包芯纱以及包芯竹节纱的强伸性能。以棉作为外包纤维,以氨纶长丝和PBT长丝为芯纱,通过在改造的环锭纺细纱机上纺制出纱线号数均为36 tex的7种包芯纱和3种包芯竹节纱,并对其断裂强度和断裂伸长率进行测试和分析。结果表明:芯纱种类对包芯纱的断裂强度和断裂伸长率有显著影响;在芯丝预牵伸倍数设计范围内,包芯纱的断裂强度随其增加而增加,断裂伸长率则相反;三芯包芯纱的断裂强度和断裂伸长率均高于双芯包芯纱,竹节弹力包芯纱的强伸性能优于双芯、三芯包芯纱。认为:纺制出的双芯、三芯包芯纱和包芯竹节纱的强伸性能更加适用于牛仔布的生产和使用。Tensile properties of two⁃core spun yarn,three⁃core spun yarn and core slub yarn were discussed.Cotton was used as wrapping fiber,spandex filament and PBT filament were used as core yarn,7 kinds of 36 tex core spun yarns and 3 kinds of 36 tex core slub yarns were spun on modified ring spinning frame,breaking tenacity and breaking elongation rate of the yarn were tested and analyzed.The results showed that the type of core yarn had significant effect on breaking tenacity and breaking elongation rate of the yarn.In the design range of core pre⁃drawing multiple,the breaking tenacity of core⁃spun yarn was increased with the increase of core pre⁃drawing multiple,while the breaking elongation rate was opposite.Breaking tenacity and breaking elongation rate of the three⁃core spun yarn were higher than that of the two⁃core spun yarn.Tensile property of slub elastic core spun yarn was better than that of the two⁃core spun yarn and three⁃core spun yarn.It is considered that the tensile property of the two⁃core spun yarn,three⁃core spun yarn and core slub yarn were more suitable for the production and use of denim.

关 键 词：多芯包芯纱 包芯竹节纱 捻系数 预牵伸倍数 断裂强度 断裂伸长率 

分 类 号：TS104.7[轻工技术与工程—纺织工程]