亚欧文化交流视角下14世纪意大利条带动物织锦纹样研究  

Study on Italian stripe pattern brocades with animal motifs in the 14^(th) century from the perspective of Eurasian cultural exchange

作　　者：李坤航 刘瑜[1] LI Kunhang;LIU Yu(College of Fashion and Design,Donghua University,Shanghai 200051,China)

机构地区：[1]东华大学服装与艺术设计学院,上海200051

出　　处：《丝绸》2023年第4期158-165,共8页Journal of Silk

基　　金：国家社会科学基金重大招标项目(16ZDA173)。

摘　　要：近东风格的条带动物织锦在14世纪意大利地区的流行具有重要跨文化意义。本文以欧美博物馆藏条带动物织锦为主要研究对象,结合手抄本插画及宗教主题木版画等图像资料对织锦纹样进行阶段性研究。研究发现,意大利条带动物织锦纹样从对近东装饰模板的依附,发展到具有本土风格的设计语言,大致经历了四个阶段:(1)“铭文主,动物辅”的模仿阶段;(2)“动物主,铭文辅”的融合阶段;(3)“去铭文,破条带”的创新阶段;(4)“去条带”的独立阶段。本文由纹样风格的分阶段讨论深入至文化层面的成因探析,对中世纪晚期亚欧纺织文化交流的相关研究具有重要参考价值。The 14 th century was a period of rapid development of the Italian textile industry and a turning point of Eurasian cultural exchange.As the main object of the Near East style imitation by Italian textile makers,stripe pattern brocades with animal motifs are a vital material carrier to witness the Eurasian textile art and cultural exchange.Studying the style evolution of stripe pattern brocades with animal motifs is of great value for exploring the dynamic interdependence relationship between Asian and European.This article uses a two-dimensional verification research method by using the 14 th century Italian stripe pattern brocades with animal motifs in European and American museums and referring to the concurrent textile patterns in the manuscripts’illustrations and painting images.It is found that the development of Italian stripe pattern brocades with animal motifs roughly experienced four stages:(i)the imitation stage with inscriptions being dominant and animals being complementary;(ii)the fusion stage with animals being dominant and inscriptions being complementary;(iii)the innovation stage without inscriptions and breaking through the design of stripes;(iv)the independent stage without stripes.The four stages of change reflected the evolution process of Italian brocade patterns from imitation and assimilation to independent innovation.During this process,Italian brocade patterns gradually removed the attachment to mythical animals,skeletons,stripes,inscriptions,and other Near East decorative templates,presenting a realistic style.The pattern developed a unique decorative language through the element integration of the European animal species and religious theme.On a deeper level,the transformation of patterns from the visual,spiritual,and cultural levels shows the affection of lifestyle and belief to visual culture and aesthetics.The dynamic interdependence between different cultures is underneath the changing styles of the pattern.As the epitome of the reorganization of the global situation in the 14 th

关 键 词：条带 动物纹样 意大利 织锦 14世纪 亚欧文化交流 

分 类 号：TS941.12[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程] J522.2[艺术—艺术设计]