秦始皇帝陵博物院藏秦代角抵戏俑人物服饰探析  

An Analysis of the Character Costumes of the Qin Dynasty Jiaodi Opera Collected in the Mausoleum of the First Emperor of Qin Dynasty

作　　者：张彬 ZHANG Bin(School of Fashion and Art Design,Xi'an University of Engineering,Xi'an 710048 China)

机构地区：[1]西安工程大学服装与艺术设计学院,西安710048

出　　处：《服饰导刊》2023年第2期11-16,共6页Fashion Guide

基　　金：国家社科基金艺术学项目“考古学视域下的宋代戏剧服饰研究”(22CB165)。

摘　　要：秦代角抵戏是中国戏剧发展历程中的泛戏剧阶段,由于距今时代较远,其艺人的服饰穿戴是以往学界触及较少且常常被人遗忘的一个领域。文章通过对秦始皇帝陵博物院7例秦代角抵戏俑人物服饰形制特征及其背后的文化内涵进行探析,进一步还原被学界较少关注的秦代角抵戏艺人服饰的穿戴状况。运用物质文化研究的方法,通过文献资料与秦始皇帝陵博物院藏考古文物相互印证和比对分析,探析秦代角抵戏艺人服饰的面貌。研究认为:(1)秦代角抵戏服饰以下裳短裙为主,短裙的绕裹和带花的挽结方式不同。同时短裙具有装饰性特征,其上遍布精美的彩绘图案。(2)秦代角抵戏服饰不仅有来源于秦人的日常生活服饰,同时也有参照日常生活服饰所创新出的新服饰,一定程度上折射出秦代表演服饰的特殊性。(3)通过秦代角抵戏人物发髻的造型特征,得出秦代参与角抵戏表演的艺人群体的身份大致与秦始皇帝陵博物院藏养马人人物身份相当。Jiaodi Opera in the Qin Dynasty belongs to the stage of"Broad Drama"in the development of ancient Chinese drama.Because it is far away from the present era,the dress of its artists is a field rarely touched by the previous academic cir⁃cles and often forgotten.[Research significance]The author further restores the wearing condition of the costumes of the charac⁃ters of the Qin Dynasty Jiaodi Opera,which is less concerned by the academic community,by analyzing the clothing system char⁃acteristics and the cultural connotation behind the seven Qin Dynasty Jiaodi Opera figurines collected in the Qin Shihuang Impe⁃rial Mausoleum Museum.[Research methods]Using the method of material and cultural research,through mutual verification and comparative analysis of literature and archaeological relics collected in the Qin Shihuang Imperial Mausoleum Museum,this paper analyzes the appearance of the costumes of the characters in the Jiaodi Opera in the Qin Dynasty.[Research results](1)In the Qin Dynasty,Actors in Jiaoda Opera mainly wore short skirts with lower clothes.The way of wrapping the skirts and ty⁃ing them with flowers were different.At the same time,the short skirt had decorative features,which were covered with exquisite colored patterns.(2)The costumes of Jiaodi Opera in Qin Dynasty not only originated from the daily life costumes of the Qin peo⁃ple,but also had new costumes innovated by referring to the daily life costumes,reflecting the particularity of the performance costumes in Qin Dynasty to a certain extent.(3)Through the modelling characteristics of the hair buns of the characters in the Ji⁃aodi Opera,it can be concluded that the identity of the artists who participated in the performance of the Jiaodi Opera is roughly the same as that of the horse keepers in the Qin Shihuang Imperial Mausoleum Museum.

关 键 词：秦始皇帝陵博物院 秦代 角抵戏 服饰 

分 类 号：TS941.12[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]