一款敏感肌修护粉底液的功效评价  

Efficacy Evaluation of a Sensitive Skin Repair Foundation

作　　者：田永红 韦阮苹 柳晨 TIAN Yonghong;WEI Ruanping;LIU Chen(Polyvoly Technology(Wuhan)Co.,Ltd.,Wuhan 430070,Hubei,China)

机构地区：[1]保利沃利科技(武汉)有限公司,湖北武汉430070

出　　处：《香料香精化妆品》2023年第2期107-113,共7页Flavour Fragrance Cosmetics

摘　　要：本文采用人体功效测试,基于专家评估、仪器测量及受试者自我评估三个维度,研究了一款含四重屏障修护功效成分的粉底液对油性敏感性受试者皮肤的保湿、修护、舒缓、控油、持妆功效。结果显示:(1)受试者使用产品28天后,皮肤角质层水分含量提升35.67%、经皮水分流失降低30.57%、乳酸刺痛试验评分降低6.9%,以上差异均具统计学意义(P<0.05),说明产品具有保湿、修护、舒缓功效;(2)受试者使用产品12 h,测试样品区皮肤表面皮脂量变化差值显著低于空白区,说明产品具有控油功效;(3)受试者使用产品24 h,受试者面部皮肤亮度(L^(*)值)变化率为0.21%,皮肤黄度(b^(*)值)变化率为2.34%,个体类型角(ITA°值)变化率为1.67%,变化率均小于5%,说明产品24 h持妆效果佳;(4)专家评估受试者在使用样品28天后均无不良反应,皮肤科医生评估结果显示30名受试者使用样品28天后未发现产品有致粉刺的不良反应,说明产品温和无刺激且无致粉刺风险。所以该粉底液在具有优异持妆性能的前提下,同时兼具修护舒缓的功效。The hydration,skin barrier repair,soothing,oil control and long lasting makeup efficacy of a sensitive skin foundation was investigated in this paper,which contained several barrier repair actives.In vivo test was conducted to evaluate the efficacy of foundation through expert evaluation,instrumental measurement and subject’s self-assessment.The results were as follows.(1)After 28 d application of the foundation,the hydration of the stratum corneum was increased by 35.67%,while the transepidermal water loss(TEWL)were decreased by 30.57%,the lactic acid sting test score was decreased by 6.9%,respectively.The differences were statistically significant(P<0.05),indicating that the foundation had hydration,skin barrier repair and soothing effects.(2)After 12 h application of the foundation,the change rate of skin sebum on test area was significantly lower than that of blank area,indicating that the product had oil control effect.(3)After 24 h application of the foundation,the change rates of brightness of skin(L^(*)value),yellowness of skin(b^(*)value)and individual type angle(ITA°value)of the subject’s facial skin were 0.21%,2.34%and 1.67%,respectively.All of the changes were less than 5%,indicating that the foundation could deliver a long lasting makeup efficacy up to 24 h.(4)Expert and dermatologist evaluation showed there was no adverse event,non-comedogenicity during the 28 d study,indicating the product was mild,non-irritating and had no risk of comedogenicity.It was concluded that the foundation has skin barrier repair and soothing effects,and good long lasting makeup efficacy as well.

关 键 词：敏感肌底妆 人体功效测试 修护 保湿 舒缓 控油 持妆 

分 类 号：TQ658[化学工程—精细化工]