美白祛斑精华液体外活性及人体功效评价研究  

In Vitro Activity and Human Efficacy Evaluation of Skin Lightening Essence

作　　者：刘俊杰 史晓璇 王艳[1] 王兰[1] 杨珍[1] 张秀君[2] 李雪[3] 赵心明 王鹏 Liu Junjie;Shi Xiaoxuan;Wang Yan;Wang Lan;Yang Zhen;Zhang Xiujun;Li Xue;Zhao Xinming;Wang Peng(Tianjin University of Traditional Chinese Medicine,Tianjin 301600,China;Tianjin Academy of Traditional Chinese Medicine Affiliated Hospital,Tianjin 300120,China;Tianjin Medical University General Hospital,Tianjin 300052,China;Tianjin Shangmei Cosmetics Co.,Ltd,Tianjin 300380,China)

机构地区：[1]天津中医药大学,天津301600 [2]天津市中医药研究院附属医院,天津300120 [3]天津医科大学总医院,天津300052 [4]天津尚美化妆品有限公司,天津300380

出　　处：《中国中西医结合皮肤性病学杂志》2023年第2期101-106,共6页Chinese Journal of Dermatovenereology of Integrated Traditional and Western Medicine

基　　金：国家自然科学基金(编号81602773)。

摘　　要：目的评估美白祛斑精华液的体外活性、临床疗效及安全性。方法采用1,1-二苯基-2-三硝基苯肼(DPPH)、2,2’-联氨-双(3-乙基-苯并噻唑-6-磺酸)(ABTS)自由基清除试验和酪氨酸酶抑制试验考察了美白祛斑精华液的抗氧化能力和酪氨酸酶抑制能力;通过鸡胚胎绒毛尿囊膜实验(HET-CAM)和紫外线诱导人体皮肤黑化模型祛斑美白功效测试法考察美白祛斑精华液的眼部刺激性和临床疗效。结果美白祛斑精华液对酪氨酸酶有较好的抑制作用,抑制率在50%时的精华液浓度为0.603 mg/mL;可以清除DPPH和ABTS自由基,清除DPPH和ABTS自由基达到50%时,精华液浓度分别为0.955 mg/mL和0.480 mg/mL;鸡胚胎绒毛尿囊膜试验结果表明精华液对眼部无刺激;人体功效评价显示,坚持使用4周美白祛斑精华液后,与阴性对照组相比较,黑化皮肤中黑色素(MI)的含量显著减少(P<0.01),衡量皮肤明亮度的指标个体类型角(ITA°)值显著提高(P<0.001),肤色视觉评估较初始值改善了5.72%(P>0.05)。结论美白祛斑精华液有良好的体外抗氧化能力和酪氨酸酶抑制能力且对眼部无刺激性,人体试验显示该精华液有美白祛斑效果。Objective In order to evaluate in vitro activity,clinical efficacy and safety of skin lightening essence.Methods DPPH,ABTS free radical scavenging assay,and tyrosinase inhibition assay were used to investigate antioxidant capacity and tyrosinase inhibition capacity of skin lightening essence.The eye irritation and clinical efficacy of skin lightening essence were investigated by using hen's egg test on chorioallantoic membrane(HET-CAM)and the human tanning spot model induced by ultraviolet(UV)irradiation.Results The skin lightening essence had good inhibitory effects on tyrosinase,with an IC50 of 0.603 mg/mL.It could scavenge DPPH and ABTS free radicals,with an IC50 of 0.955 mg/mL and 0.480 mg/mL,respectively.The result of HET-CAM showed that the essence had no eye irritation.After four weeks of treatment,compared with the negative control group,human efficacy evaluation showed that the melanin index(MI)in tanning spot could be significantly reduced(P<0.01),the ITA°value of skin brightness was significantly increased(P<0.001),and the visual evaluation of skin color improved by 5.72%(P>0.05)compared with the initial value.Conclusion Skin lightening essence has good antioxidant capacity and tyrosinase inhibitory capacity in vitro,and no eye irritation.Human experiments show that the essence has skin lightening effects.

关 键 词：化妆品 抗氧化 酪氨酸酶 功效评价 临床研究 

分 类 号：TQ658[化学工程—精细化工]