澳毛/绢丝/兔绒混纺薄花呢的设计与生产  

Design and production of australian wool/silk/rabbit fabric

作　　者：蔡永东 CAI Yongdong(Jiangsu College of Engineering and Technology,Nantong 226006,Jiangsu,China;Jiangsu Province Advanced Textile Technology Center,Nantong 226006,Jiangsu,China)

机构地区：[1]江苏工程职业技术学院,江苏南通226006 [2]江苏省先进纺织工程技术中心,江苏南通226006

出　　处：《上海纺织科技》2023年第4期40-41,共2页Shanghai Textile Science & Technology

基　　金：2014年江苏省先进纺织工程技术中心资助项目[苏政办(2014)-22-3-4]。

摘　　要：为开发一种澳毛/绢丝/兔绒混纺薄花呢面料,选用70%澳毛、20%绢丝和10%兔绒作为原料,经纬纱采用23.8 tex×2半精纺混纺纱股线。介绍了澳毛/绢丝/兔绒混纺薄花呢的产品设计方案,包括原料选用、纱线设计及织物规格设计与计算。重点讨论了主要生产工艺及技术,如前织准备、剑杆织造及后整理等工艺设计的关键参数与相关技术措施。生产实践表明,羊毛/绢丝/兔绒混纺薄花呢面料质地轻薄、手感滑爽、风格独特,可用于高档休闲女装或裙装的制作。In order to develop a high-grade wool/silk/rabbit velvet blended tweed fabric,70%Australian wool,20%silk and 10%rabbit velvet are used as raw materials,and 23.8 texx2 strands are blended by semi-worsted technology as warp and weft yarns.The product design of wool/silk/rabbit velvet blended tweed is systematically introduced,including material selection,yarn design and fabric specification design and calculation.The key factors and solutions of the main production processes and technologies,such as the preparation of front weaving,rapier weaving and finishing are emphasisly discussed.Production practice shows that wool/silk/rabbit velvet blended tweed fabric has light texture,smooth handle and unique style,and it could be used in high-end casual dress or dress production.

关 键 词：澳毛 绢丝 兔绒 混纺纱 薄花呢 产品设计 生产工艺 

分 类 号：TS106.811[轻工技术与工程—纺织工程]