基于归拔工艺的无省旗袍结构塑形方法  

Structure Shaping Method of Traditional Cheongsam based on Blocking Process

作　　者：郭唱 方丽英 GUO Chang;FANG Li-ying(School of Fashion Design and Engineering,Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Hangzhou Zhejiang 310018,China;School of International Education,Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Hangzhou Zhejiang 310018,China)

机构地区：[1]浙江理工大学服装学院,浙江杭州310018 [2]浙江理工大学国际教育学院,浙江杭州310018

出　　处：《武汉纺织大学学报》2023年第2期27-34,共8页Journal of Wuhan Textile University

摘　　要：为提高无省旗袍制版便利性,改善无省旗袍合体效果,提出了一种归拔与裁剪相结合的结构设计方法。在文献资料和实物数据分析的基础上,结合女性人体特征与现代服装结构设计理论对典型款式无省旗袍进行结构与归拔工艺设计,提供局部归拔数值参考,以图文形式呈现归拔塑形步骤。在上述方法基础上采用3种面料制作样衣,并选取5名受试者进行样衣试验。实验结果表明,通过该方法制作而成的无省旗袍,以真丝面料制作效果最佳,能达到较好的穿着效果。结构设计与塑形方法的研究为无省旗袍制作工艺传承与发展提供了理论支持。In order to improve the convenience of traditional cheongsam plate making and improve the fit effect of traditional cheongsam,a structural design method combining pulling and cutting was proposed.On the basis of the analysis of literature and physical data,combined with female human body characteristics and modern clothing structure design theory,the typical style of traditional cheongsam is structurally designed,and the partial return value reference is provided,and the return and shaping steps are presented in the form of pictures and texts.On the basis of the method,three kinds of fabrics were used to make sample clothes,and 5 subjects were selected for sample clothes test.The experimental results show that the cheongsam made by this method can achieve better wearing effect,and the best effect is made of silk fabrics.The research on structural design and shaping method provides theoretical support for the inheritance and development of traditional cheongsam production technology.

关 键 词：无省旗袍 平面裁剪 旗袍结构设计 归拔工艺 

分 类 号：TS941.6[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]