西服两片袖结构质量的评定  

Study on structural quality evaluation of two-piece sleeves in suits

作　　者：陈谦[1] 庹武[1] 胡丹丹[1] 袁守华 李阳 李朝璐 CHEN Qian;TUO Wu;HU Dandan;YUAN Shouhua;LI Yang;LI Chaolu(College of Fashion Technology,Zhongyuan University of Technology,Zhengzhou,Henan 450007,China)

机构地区：[1]中原工学院服装学院,河南郑州450007

出　　处：《毛纺科技》2023年第4期51-54,共4页Wool Textile Journal

摘　　要：为了系统有效地控制两片袖结构的设计质量,实现西服肩袖设计与生产的标准化和数字化,针对西服的袖窿结构与袖结构图纸进行综合评定。通过袖窿与袖结构的拼合定位,对主要控制部位进行数据测量与系统分析,结合主要结构的加放量数据,运用回归分析法拟合各参数,得到了3组显著影响“袖窿-袖”结构质量的关联关系,以此为基础制定出两片袖结构质量的综合检验评定标准,该检验方法使西服肩袖结构设计在制图阶段排除成品袖疵病的发生成为可能,为控制西服肩袖质量、提高生产效益及实现数字化设计提供了新途径。In order to systematically and effectively control the design quality of the structure of two-piece sleeves and realize the standardization and digitalization of suit rotator cuff design and production,a comprehensive evaluation was carried out on the armhole structure and sleeve structure drawings of suits.Through the joint positioning of armhole and sleeve structure,the measurement and systematic analysis of the data of the main control parts,combined with the addition data of the main structure,the regression analysis method was used to fit the parameters,and the three groups of correlation relationships that significantly affect the quality of the"armhole-sleeve"structure were obtained.Based on this,the comprehensive inspection and evaluation standards of the structural quality of the two pieces of sleeves were formulated.The test method makes it possible to eliminate sleeve defects during the drawing stage of suit rotator cuff structure design,and provides a new way to control the quality of suit rotator cuff,improve production efficiency and realize digital design.

关 键 词：袖窿-袖结构 两片袖 袖疵病 评定标准 

分 类 号：TS941.2[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]