经编单向导湿织物设计与结构优化  

Design and structure optimization of warp knitted unidirectional moisture conducting fabrics

作　　者：尹昂 丛洪莲 YIN Ang;CONG Honglian(Engineering Research Center for Knitting Technology,Ministry of Education,Jiangnan University,Wuxi,Jiangsu 214122,China)

机构地区：[1]江南大学教育部针织技术工程研究中心,江苏无锡214122

出　　处：《纺织学报》2023年第4期86-91,共6页Journal of Textile Research

基　　金：国家自然科学基金项目(11972172)。

摘　　要：为探究经编结构和原料配置对织物单向导湿性能的影响,对织物各梳栉的调整、原料的配置和织物结构进行选择。设计8个样品,通过对其水分管理性能研究对比后发现,内层纱线和外层纱线线密度差异越大,织物的单向导湿性能就越好。在原料配置方面,内侧选用5.6 tex(14 f)涤纶低弹丝,外侧选用8.3 tex(288 f)的涤纶低弹丝具有最佳的水分管理性能;而内层选用5.6 tex(14 f)的涤纶低弹丝,外层选用9.7 tex的棉纱具有较高的润湿时间和吸收率,但其内外层润湿时间差、最大润湿半径和扩散速度较低,会影响面料对人体的穿着舒适度。在结构方面,外层采用经绒组织,内层采用编链,其整体水分管理性能要优于内层采用经缎组织,且织物内层纱线垫纱成圈织针数越少有利于增强单向导湿性能。Objective This research is carried out in order to explore the influence of warp knitting structure and raw material configuration on the wet performance of fabrics.Method This paper took differential capillary effect as the design principle,5.6 tex(14 f)tex polyester,8.3 tex(288 f)polyester,9.7 tex cotton,4.5 tex spandex as raw materials,and 8 sample fabrics were made on the HKS4EL knitting machine,with manufacturing specifications E28,width 1066 mm,knitting machine speed is 550 r/min.In terms of structure,four warp structures were designed,GB1 used warp velvet structure and warp flat tissue,and GB2 used warp structure and warp satin tissue to form four structural configurations.Results Water absorption rate shows that the lowest water content of the eight samples was higher than the top for most of the time in 120 s.The timely transfer of the liquid from the inside to the outside of the fabric reflects the better unidirectional conductive ability of the fabric.Moisture time shows that the wetting time at the top of the eight samples was greater than that at the bottom,which shows that the inner layer of the fabric can remain dry for a long time.It can be seen in the water absorption rate at the top of the samples is higher than that at the bottom(Fig.5).The maximum wetting radius and propagation speed of the top of the fabric are basically greater than those at the bottom of the fabric(Fig.6,Fig.7),which reflects the fabric′s good single-guide wet ability.In general,the maximum wetting radius and propagation speed of the fabric are affected by the fabric structure,fabric thickness and yarn type and the cumulative one-way transport index reflects how easily liquid wets in a fabric.The highest index of f6 of the eight types of fabrics,the maximum wetting radius and propagation speed of f6 were significantly higher than those in the other samples(Fig.8).This is due to the relatively loose fabric structure used in the f6,The gap between the yarn is relatively large,and the line density of the two yarn materials u

关 键 词：经编 单向导湿 原料配置 织物结构 差动毛细效应 针织物设计 

分 类 号：TS184[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]