北魏毛领皮衣复原研究  

Analysis and recovery of the Leather Coat with Fur Collar in the Northern Wei Dynasty

作　　者：许李逍 赵丰[1,2] XU Lixiao;ZHAO Feng(College of Fashion and Design,Donghua University,Shanghai 200051,China;China National Silk Museum,Hangzhou 310002,China)

机构地区：[1]东华大学服装与艺术设计学院,上海200051 [2]中国丝绸博物馆,浙江杭州310002

出　　处：《东华大学学报（社会科学版）》2023年第1期39-47,61,共10页Journal of Donghua University:Social Science

摘　　要：位于草原丝绸之路沿线的伊和淖尔墓群M3,出土了一件名为“北魏毛领皮衣”的文物,经修复后公开面世。在北魏服饰出土实物稀缺、相关结构工艺研究较少的现状下,其为北魏服饰的研究提供了新视角。从展览所现毛领皮衣形制及尺寸出发,结合文献及考古资料所载当时皮料来源、攻皮之术、面料布幅规格及相关服饰特征等内容,推定皮衣尺寸结构及用料用量,以复原制作还原其历史面貌。研究其特性及所含文化后认为,出土皮衣应为一件最初在游牧民族生活需求催化下产生的、实用性与美观性兼备的带袖披风,在北朝考古资料所现场景中,被人物披着时,于领部固定、袖空垂于外。The Leather Coat with Fur Collar which belongs to the Pingcheng Period of the Northern Wei Dynasty is on display in the Capital Museum after restoration.It was excavated from Cemetery No.M3 near YiHe-Nur Zhengxiangbai Banner,Inner Mongolia along the Grassland silk road.Based on the shape and size of the leather coat displayed in the exhibition,combined with the content of the source of leather materials,the leather manufacturing process,the fabric width,etc.,which were recorded in the historical and archaeological materials at that time,we can infer its structure drawing and finish the recovery.In the process of recovery,we can understand its clothing concept covers economy,practicality,and aesthetics.After a comparative study with related costumes in the Northern Dynasties,we can conjecture the leather coat is an item of the mantle with sleeves derived from the life of nomads,and in the scenes shown by the archaeological image data of the Northern Dynasties,it is fixed at the collar and the sleeves hang empty outside when worn by the figure.

关 键 词：复原 皮衣 披风 北魏 平城时代 伊和淖尔墓群 

分 类 号：TS941.7[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程] J523.5[艺术—艺术设计]